How To: Root Out Stubborn Malware with HijackThis

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Trying to fix a badly infected PC without HijackThis is sort of like going into surgery without a scalpel; it’s the only tool for the job when all other measures fail. New spyware strains and increasingly complex viruses emerge every day, and your PC’s immune system (i.e, antivirus software) isn’t always able to keep up. And if you’re performing emergency surgery on someone else’s PC, you may find that they didn’t have any AV software installed to begin with.

No matter how bad the infection, HijackThis gives you the means to dig deep into Windows to root out whatever it is that’s wreaking havoc. It’s not a cure-all, however, or even a cure-little. In fact, HijackThis doesn’t cure anything on its own. What HijackThis does do is give you a snapshot of the system’s registry and file settings, putting particular emphasis on the browser. It doesn’t discern between safe and malicious settings, so it’s possible to unintentionally inflict real harm if you don’t know what you’re doing. Follow along as we show you how to properly wield HijackThis.

1. Download and Run HijackThis

Originally developed by Dutch programmer Merijn Bellekom, HijackThis has since been sold to Trend Micro, a security firm better equipped to maintain and update the program. But don’t worry, HijackThis is still free and you can download it at http://free.antivirus.com/hijackthis/ where you’ll find both a stable and beta version. We haven’t run into much trouble using the beta, but it’s currently only available as an installer. With the stable version, you have the option of downloading just the executable and plopping it on your USB thumb drive.

Once installed, fire up the program and choose ‘Do a system scan and save a logfile.’

HijackThis Image

After you do this, you should see a bunch of seemingly obscure settings in the program’s main window, (Image 2) which will also be listed out in a separate text file generated on the fly. If the text file that appears is empty, try using the stable release instead of the beta.

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2. Understand the Results

Keep in mind what we said earlier, in that HijackThis doesn’t discern between safe and malicious entries. Even on a badly infected system, many, if not most, of the settings will be legit and altering them could affect the functionality of your PC.
If you consider yourself a savvy user, you can scroll through the settings on your own and look for any suspicious or harmful settings. In some cases, this will be obvious, but not always, so you want to be sure to Google (or Bing) any entries you’re unsure about before nuking them.


3. Hop Online for a Second Opinion

No matter what your level of expertise, it never hurts to get a second opinion. One way to do this by posting your log contents on your favorite PC tech support forum. Mash the AnalyzeThis button to see a list of forums to choose from, or just hop over to Maximum PC’s board.

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If you strike out on a bulletin board or need instantaneous feedback, German Website www.hijackthis.de will oblige. Just copy your entire log contents to the clipboard (right-click>select all>copy), paste it into the site’s textbox, and press the Analyze button. Within a few moments, the site will spit out the results and alert you to any potential problem areas. Anything with a green checkmark is most likely safe, while the opposite holds true for any red Xs that are displayed. You may also see orange question marks, which are unknown files or entries that require further investigation.

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Rather than toss all your eggs in one basket, double-check these results by heading over to http://hjt.networktechs.com. Just like before, you’ll paste your log file’s contents and press the Parse button. All the results are color coded so you can see any potential pitfalls at a glance. Hover your mouse cursor over these to learn why they’re being flagged and what the recommended course of action is.

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4.Get Offline Help with HijackReader

The problem with relying on a Website to sift through your HijackThis log is that an infected PC doesn’t always let you have access to the Internet. In some cases, you may be able to hop online, but your Web browsing attempts either gets constantly rerouted, or pages load too slow to be of any help.

In this case, arm yourself with HijackReader , another free third-party app which works in conjunction with HijackThis. There’s no installation necessary – just unzip the archive to your hard drive or portable flash drive and run HijackReader.exe. Copy the HijackThis log file to your clipboard and mash ‘Paste log,’ followed by the ‘Check!’ button.

HijackThis Image

When HijackReader finishes, it will save the results as an HTML file and prompt you to give it a name. Open this file to see the results. HijackReader tends to know less about individual entries than the online sites do, but for the ones it does recognize, it tends to be a bit more informative. No matter which method you use (or combination thereof), it’s a good idea to double-check any iffy entries with Google before you go blasting away registry and system settings.

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Freeware Files: 5 Portable Apps to Stick on Your Security-Themed USB Key!

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Security rivals thermal paste as the most important thing you have to keep in mind when building or using a system. Every bit of software on your PC should be updated; every external access point into your digital life, closed.  There’s no reason why you should be handing over the keys to the castle to random Internet strangers.  Powerful virus protection, a strong firewall, and a bit of common sense — among other tricks — will go far to preserve your fortress of a system.

Now that’s all well and good for the desktop in your living room, but what about third-party machines?  We’ve all had to jump on a system over which we’ve had no control–no observance or administrative rights to ensure that every bit of the operating system checked out to ideal security standards.  You can always head over the falls in a barrel and type your passwords and login credentials blindly, with no foresight or worries that you’re inputting valuable information on a potentially infected machine.  That, or you can do what I’d do: Make sure that your every keystroke and action is somehow safeguarded through the use of portable applications that you can carry on a storage device of your choice (cough USB key cough).

And that’s exactly what I’ll be exploring in this week’s Freeware Files: Five awesome portable apps that you can carry with you to increase your security presence on a PC that isn’t yours.  These aren’t panaceas–you’ll still want to be as critical and as cautious as you would previously.  However, they’re a step in the right direction toward (hopefully) a data-leak-free lifestyle.

Active Kill Disk — Hard Drive Eraser

In a world of small arms, I’ll start with the security nuke: If you need to wipe a drive that’s too far beyond saving due to malware, virus infections, or some other critical issue, you’ll want to slap a copy of Active Kill Disk on your USB key post-haste.  Provided you’re rocking a bootable USB key, you can use this app to fire up a DOS-based destruction tool for unruly digital files.  The free version of the app only allows you to erase your drive using the one-pass zero method.  Stronger techniques will require you to pony up a price for the full version of the app.  However, unless you’re trying to avoid a government inquiry or something, this should be all you need for bringing your beleaguered hard drive back in line–and making sure that your key information is gone for good!

Download it here!

FreeOTFE

Similar to the popular privacy app TrueCrypt, FreeOTFE allows you to create and access encrypted volumes of information on a system–which, naturally, will appear as just a stream of junk for anyone lacking the proper authorization credentials.  The beauty of FreeOTFE is that, unlike TrueCrypt, you don’t actually have to install an application in order to gain access to this powerful protection.  You don’t even need administrator rights for the encryption to work!  While this app might not make the most sense if you’re frequently jet-setting between systems, it’s an ideal solution for building additional privacy into something like your work system.

Download it here!

PortableTor

Need a quick way to access Web sites while reducing your ability to be tracked?  PortableTor is the easy solution for gaining access to a large network of proxy servers (really, other people) that bounce your traffic requests around before pointing them toward the final destination you seek.  The only problem with the Tor solution is that, by nature, traffic exiting the Tor network isn’t going to be encrypted.  That would theoretically allow someone serving as an exit node for Tor to eavesdrop on what gets passed out between that machine and said destinations.  Still, for an easy-to-use privacy solution, PortableTor sure beats surfing the Internet vanilla-style.

Download it here!

PuTTY Portable

Right on the heels of PortableTor comes PuTTY Portable.  This app doesn’t allow you to join an encrypted network of proxies.  Rather, you can use PuTTY to fire up an encrypted SSH connection — or tunnel — to your desktop computer that’s presumably located in a safer surfing location than wherever you happen to be.  Once this connection is live, you can use this protected gateway to do your normal network routines like browsing around, checking email, et cetera.  Others won’t be able to decrypt the information you’re sending out and you won’t be forced to use an unsecure network to conduct your important business!

Download it here!

NetWrix USB Blocker

If you’re on the flip-side of the equation and are looking for ways to keep your system free from the USB-based applications others are carrying around, then this app is a perfect way to lock down your system from unauthorized, portable access.  NetWrix USB Blocker helps you turn off all (or a select number) of your USB ports, which will prevent anyone from simply walking up, slapping in a USB key, and ripping out your saved passwords in a single setting.  The app requires the use of Microsoft’s Group Policy Management, so make sure that’s installed on the system of choice before you go to run NetWrix USB Blocker.  After that, your system will be safe from unwanted flash drives!

Download it here!

David Murphy (@ Acererak) is a technology journalist and former Maximum PC editor. He writes weekly columns about the wide world of open-source as well as weekly roundups of awesome, freebie software. Befriend him on Twitter, especially if you have an awesome app or game you’re dying to recommend!

SourcedFrom Sourced from: Maximum PC Features RSS Feed

The Freeware Files: 2009’s Best Free Apps and Utilities

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Happy New Year! Well, almost. Before I can raise my glass and tip my columnist’s hat to the one-year birthday of the Freeware Files (and Murphy’s Law), it’s time we get down to the time-honored tech tradition at this time of year: the awards list.

Unlike my brethren at Maximum PC, who have put together a fine list of general freeware applications that you should check out regardless of the time, I’ve sat down and gone through the hundreds of apps and utilities that I’ve covered throughout this year. Some, you might know. Some, you might have forgotten about. And some apps and utilities that I’ve used, but not covered, still deserve special mention in this general roundup of the year’s best freeware.

So put on your party hat and get your downloading finger ready. For each winner, I’ll give a little mention of why said app is worth its salt, why it differs from what you’ll natively find in Windows, and whether it’s a must-download or a maybe-consider. After all, it would be crazy to download 20 apps in any given setting, no? You just want the best. This list, friends, represents the best… and in some places, the unknown!

Let’s begin.

Best Text Tool: Texter

Texter saves so much time for die-hard, hand-coding Web geeks, it’s not even funny. And, to be honest, it’s amazing just how simple this Lifehacker-borne utility is. Here’s how it works. Fire up Texter and you can create a string of text to serve as a replacement for whenever you type a specific element on your machine. For example, you could use Texter to replace every time you type <img> with the full <img src ="…"> reference, and start your cursor right where you should be typing the link to said picture. The possibilities are endless and the carpal tunnel bills are reduced. For that, Texter wins a Freeware Files Award.

Does Windows have a built-in alternative for this tool? No. Next program!

Download it here!

 

Best Disc Mounter: Virtual CloneDrive

Daemon Tools usually takes the cake for the best disc image mounting application. However, successive iterations of the application have made it damned near impossible to avoid installing some kind of adware or toolbar alongside the application. As that has the potential to greatly hack off a number of Maximum PC readers, out goes Daemon and in its place comes a worthy competitor, Virtual CloneDrive

What’s a disc image? What’s mounting? In short, there are plenty of programs out there that rip the contents of an optical disc (the legal contents, I hope) to a giant archive, otherwise known as an .ISO file. Mounting programs like the easy-to-use Virtual CloneDrive allow you to fool your computer into thinking that said archive is actually a living, breathing, spinning CD in your optical drive. Never scratch your discs again, ensure faster copies from your "disc" to your hard drive, and give yourself a handy backup for your critical data… then mount it with Virtual CloneDrive!

Does Windows have a built-in alternative? Not for ISO files it doesn’t!

Download it here!

 

Best Distraction Eliminator: Temptation Blocker

Temptation Blocker is downright cruel. But sometimes, love just has to be tough. When you launch this utility, you’re presented with a list of programs. Select a program that distracts you from staying on-task with your work, set a time, then hit the "Get Work Done!" button. If you try to access the application before the time expires, you’ll be presented with an annoying, 32-digit code to type in before said program unlocks. In theory–in theory–the annoyance of typing such a string will keep you from accessing your Firefox browser, which will keep you from typing in "cuteoverload.com" and hitting enter, which will keep you from losing your job… et cetera.

If Windows had a built-in alternative, you wouldn’t be looking at cute animal pictures right now!

Download it here!

 

Best RSS Aggregator: FeedDemon

For all its features, FeedDemon’s greatest attribute is that it takes the acts of subscribing to and reading a number of different syndicated feeds and makes it as plainly presented and as easy as can be. Those are a lot of words to swallow but, really, they speak to the core of the FeedDemon’s simple experience. That doesn’t mean that this program isn’t packed full of other useful features, however. Built-in synchronization allows you to keep the contents of your FeedDemon applications across multiple workspaces in check via Google Reader. A wealth of options for organizing, tagging, and marking your feeds helps you keep your growing syndication list as organized as possible. In short, FeedDemon simply rocks–shoot, it even supports tabbed browsing!

I suppose Windows has the built-in RSS display via the Windows Sidebar, but come on.

Download it here!

 

Best Offline Twitter App: TweetDeck

This one’s tough. TweetDeck shares a number of features with competing programs and, to be honest, has one of the least eye-catching interfaces of any of them–but there’s ugly, and there’s functional. The app’s huge, columnar interface does much to enhance the process of organize Twitter streams by raw feed, friend groupings, searches, lists… the list, as it were, goes on. Better still, the synchronization functionality built into TweetDeck allows you to share your settings across multiple versions of the application on your many PCs and mobile devices. It might not be pretty, but TweetDeck works–and works well. Now if only there was a way to save a history of previously downloaded tweets. That 200-tweet limit per column just doesn’t do it for a power user!

Windows? Twitter? Haha.

Download it here!

 


Best Windows Diagnostic / Disaster Avoidance Tool: Ultimate Boot CD

If you have a copy of Windows XP sitting around to create said Ultimate Boot CD, then you’re in for a treasure-trove of helpful utilities and diagnostics tools designed to save the day when your system starts going haywire. In fact, a number of the apps and utilities built into this live disc–including MemTest86+, Darik’s Boot and Nuke, HDClone, and CPU Burn-In–are programs that I would recommend anyway. The fact that these, and a whole lot more, are included on a single bootable package really speaks to the smorgasbord of protection and configuration options that Ultimate Boot CD can deliver for your system. If you don’t have a copy of this sitting around for troublesome times, you only have yourself to blame!

Simply put, this CD beats the pants off of Windows’ built-in Recover Console.

Download it here!

 

Best BitTorrent Client: uTorrent

Why is uTorrent one of the top-used applications by BitTorrent downloaders? Two reasons: functionality and foresight. On its face, uTorrent delivers a simple interface coupled with a number of helpful functions for the novice user. You can download BitTorrents with but a few clicks of a mouse, handpick the files you want to grab out of said BitTorrents, and shut down the program when the download is done. More advanced users can make use of the program’s extensive configuration options, including the ability to customize download speeds by time and access the program’s interface through an easy-to-operate Web UI.

Although they currently exist in a release candidate version of the app, uTorrent’s impressive future features include live streaming for video BitTorrents and a brand-new "access anywhere" Web UI, as well as support for BitTorrent’s free DNA content delivery service. And before you ask, no, Windows can’t download Torrent files by its lonesome.

Download it here!

 

Best CD/DVD/HD Burner: ImgBurn

For a no-nonsense image burning experience, whether you’re making a simple DVD or a ton of Blu-Ray discs in succession, look no further than ImgBurn. This application supports every Windows OS under the sun for both 32-bit and 64-bit operating systems. Better, it requires no updates for working with a laundry list of common optical drive models. Not only can you burn a huge range of image files and audio formats, but you can also build video discs for all three major formats based on their respective folder types: DVD (VIDEO_TS), HD-DVD (HVDVD_TS), and Blu-ray (BDAV / BDMV). New support for folder structure modifications joins a preexisting (and handy) shutdown mechanism for flipping off your system when a burn is complete. ImgBurn has truly etched its way into our hearts with a laser of love.

Windows might have its own CD burning functionality built into the operating system, but it’s nowhere near as comprehensive as ImgBurn! 

Download it here

 

Best Multi-System Takeover Utility: Input Director

Here’s the setup: You have more than one PC at your desk. Whether you’re rocking two laptops, a laptop and a desktop, or two beastly desktop machines, it can be a real pain to switch between the two. Prior to the birth of Input Director, you’d either need to have a separate mouse and keyboard for each machine (ew) or use a program like Synergy to control both using a the single input devices of a host machine. But all has not been perfect in Synergy land. The once-useful application has long since gotten fussy and a new king has taken its place on the throne of desktop control. Input Director offers a ton of additional configuration options for using one mouse and keyboard to control a whole arsenal of systems. It’s jam-packed with setup and encryption options, and its actual process of connecting multiple PCs together runs more smoothly than any similar application I’ve tested. And Input Director even supports shared clipboards flawlessly–a tricky task that will allow you to use the contents of any system’s clipboard on any other machine.

Remote desktop be damned, Windows: Input Director is the new hotness for multi-system control. 

Download it here

 

Best Desktop Organizer: Fences

Nothing is more painful than a messy desktop. And Windows sure doesn’t do much to sweep up your clutter. Aside from a Desktop Cleanup wizard and a few auto-arranging tools, you really don’t have much of an ability to organize or, dare I say it, group your icons under a collective theme. The most you can do is drag correlated icons to different parts of your screen and hope that your monitor is large enough to handle your sprawling shortcuts.

You could also try installing Fences. In fact, I strongly suggest you do so. This super-organizer allows you to lock off parts of your desktop–or, at least, create virtual walls for your desktop icons–which you can then use to pen similar icons into larger zones. Go ahead and make these pens, or fences, as large or as small as you want. If you have too many icons to fill the space, a handy little scroll bar allows you to run through more of your shortcuts without affecting the rest of your desktop’s aesthetics. And even if you’re fence-crazy, getting to the bottom of a clean desktop is but a few mouse clicks away. Integrated transparency and color customization options ensure that your desktop will still look as pretty as can be regardless of how you’ve organized your icon farm.

Download it here

 


Best Desktop Makeover: Rainmeter

if you want to totally revamp the look of your desktop without sacrificing a huge amount of system resources to do so, then Rainmeter is your ticket to a fresh new user interface. Not only can you build awesome backgrounds and elegant, transparent menus and sidebars into your desktop, but you can easily modify the look and feel of any theme you want without resorting to massive amounts of text editing or complicated configuration scripts. A new RainBrowser tool gives you an easy means for previewing new themes you’ve downloaded in a manner that’s quite similar to Firefox’s theme browser. Use Rainmeter to get easy and elegant access to your email, RSS feeds, the weather, iTunes feeds, wireless statuses… truly, anything you want. As the developers themselves say, "Every inch of a skin is completely customizable." And you can always download even more third-party themes and tools for making your desktop even that much cooler (and useful!)

Download it here!

 

Best Application Pack: Ninite

The half-Web-app, half-installer-package Ninite has almost singlehandedly ruined the very awards roundup you’re reading. Why’s that? Because it’s the perfect way to download and install a mass of amazing freeware and open-source applications and utilities in one, automated shot. Words almost fail me in regards to how much time Ninite has saved me during a typical Windows wipe and re-installation. Here’s why: When you hit up the Ninite Web site, you’re presented with a huge list of excellent, free programs to check off. You’re creating a customized installer package that, once you’re done, saves to your system in the form of a single executable. Run that, and the Ninite-created installation package will install every program you selected onto your machine using said program’s default settings. What used to take hours of finding, downloading, and installing now takes the better part of minutes.

If Windows had a built-in package manager, that would be pretty great, wouldn’t it?

Download it here

 

Best Security Tool (Overall): Sandboxie

The name of the security game is virtualization. After all, the best way to keep your computer safe from harm is to isolate the elements that could perform unwanted activities or open the door to external threats. Sandboxie is an excellent application that allows you to extend the power of virtualization to any program on your PC. It’s a must-have for applications that you’re a little unsure about–just launch said questionable program into its own virtualized environment, and no havoc it could possibly create will ever affect the underlying contents of your normal operating system. Like a little cloud in the sky, the application is forever removed from the rest of your system.

Sandboxie is extremely easy to operate. Loading new applications into separate virtual environments doesn’t require you to spend hours of poring over support forums, as the application itself is fairly straightforward to use. And that’s just the combination you want to see in an award-winning freeware application: simple use, superb functionality. Sandboxie is the ultimate protection tool for your PC.

Download it here

 

Best Security Tool (Antivirus): Microsoft Security Essentials

Step one: It’s free. Step two: It’s one of the highest-rated free antivirus and anti-malware apps out there. Step three: It’s unobtrusive and easy-to-use. Bonus step: Microsoft makes it, and they’ve managed to make a product that’s durable, comprehensive, and simple.

It’s funny how there was all this apprehension and skepticism about a Microsoft-based security program before its grand Security Essentials tool was released. And yet, here we are months after the fact, and MSE has catapulted itself to the top of the freeware list for its stellar virus and malware detection abilities. Who would have thought? Crazier still, AV-Comparatives.org just recently named MSE as its best-performing, freeware, anti-malware application of the whole bunch.

It’s almost too much to type, but there you have it. Microsoft Security Essentials is the freeware program to pick up if you’re at-all concerned about the general security and welfare of your system. MSE features real-time protection elements, daily updates for virus and spyware definitions, and easy scheduling for fuller scans… and that’s about it. The program isn’t laden with a ton of options but, in this case, maybe that’s a good thing considering just how well it performs with what little it needs you to input.

Download it here

 

Best Web Browser: Google Chrome

You made it this far, so I’ll unleash the biggie: Chrome has done a great job of picking up the pace with its development this year. The browser is fast–faster than Firefox when rendering multiple tabs and dealing with JavaScript apps. Chrome is also a more secure platform than Firefox, thanks to the browser’s built-in virtualization that splits each tab into an environment that’s kept isolated from the contents of your system as a whole. If a piece of malware or Web exploit affects Chrome, it’s not going to get past this iron wall to disturb your PC without some major help from a tangential attack.

The long-awaited launch of Chrome Extensions now puts Chrome on equal footing feature-wise with Mozilla Firefox. Although the browser still has some catching up to do to reach Firefox’s huge swath of available add-ons, it’s only a matter of time before cross-platform plugins become a matter of course for developers. And given that Google Chrome has in some way inspired the launch of Google’s mighty Chrome OS project–and will serve as Chrome OS’s flagship application–it’s hard to deny this browser an award for its bootstrapping, if nothing else.

Download it here

 

There are a lot of freeware apps I left off this list. There are a lot of freeware apps that I haven’t even begun to explore. And, for that matter, there are a lot of freeware apps that are simply lame. Keep tuning in to the Freeware Files as we head throughout 2010, and I’ll do my best to keep getting you all the interesting new apps and utilities that will turn your normal desktop into a tricked-out super-rig. For great justice, of course. Thanks for reading in 2009!

David Murphy (@ Acererak) is a technology journalist and former Maximum PC editor. He writes weekly columns about the wide world of open-source as well as weekly roundups of awesome, freebie software. Befriend him on Twitter, especially if you have an awesome app or game you’re dying to recommend! 

 

SourcedFrom Sourced from: Maximum PC Features RSS Feed

Freeware Files: Nine Must-Have Extensions and Apps for Google Chrome!

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It’s been exactly a month since we last visited the topic of Google Chrome. With both Windows and OSX beta versions of the browser now supporting add-ons, and with nearly 1,500 possible extensions flooding the Chrome Extensions "marketplace" since December 8, 2009, it’s about time to take another look at the overflowing mass of Chrome add-ons. Why? To build the perfect browser, of course. Allow me a moment to monologue:

I’ve been a Mozilla Firefox user for a long, long time. Simply put, I love extensions. Being able to build new elements into my browsing experience, from Cloud-based bookmark synchronization to Sudoku puzzles, has been one of the more awesome elements of using this piece of software. If only it was that easy to enhance or extend the usefulness of any program one installed!

I’ve been hesitant to switch to Chrome for this very reason–without add-on support, I’m missing out on 50- to 75-percent of the awesomeness I’ve build into my admittedly slower and more memory-hogging browser, Firefox. But that’s an argument that’s slowly dying away. A number of Firefox’s best add-ons have made the conversion over to Google Chrome, and that’s exactly what I’ll be exploring in this Freeware Files roundup.

These extensions are the crème de la crème. The best. The add-ons you should rush to pack into any new installation of Google Chrome, period. But that’s not all–I’m also going to take a look at some apps that interact with Google Chrome or, in some cases, replace Google Chrome entirely… you’ll see what I mean when it comes to interesting alternatives!

Apps

Chrome Privacy Protector

When Google Chrome installs on your machine, it installs with a unique ID that, in theory, could make the browser traceable to you in some fashion. I’m not suggesting that Chrome has some huge security breach or that there exists a huge record of everybody’s installation / browsing / add-ons / whatever. However, the fact of the matter remains–there’s an identifying number tied to your installation. If you’re a privacy geek, that’s not cool. And if that’s not cool, then Chrome Privacy Protector is the app you’ll use to get rid of this variable.

Download it here!

 

Iron-Version or ChromePlus

These two browsers, variants of Google Chrome (technically, the open-source Chromium version of the browser), each offer a different set of customizations and built-in add-ons that might be just what you’re looking for if you find the standard version of Chrome to be a bit lacking.

Here’s the deal: Iron-Version focuses on building a more private browsing experience, in that it strips out a number of features that would be used to send Google information of any sort. No longer will your browser have a user ID associated with it, send any data to Google in any form, update itself from Google’s servers, or use any alternative error messages when your browsing experience goofs up.

ChromePlus, on the other hand, doesn’t concern itself with privacy as much–more usefulness. Although this Chrome variant still strips out parts of the whole "sending information to Google" routine, it also packs a lot of great functionality directly into the browser that you’d otherwise have to find via add-ons.

For example, this version of Chrome allows you to double-click in the area of any tab to close it–take that, tiny "x" button. You can quickly open up new tabs by dragging a link on a page to anywhere on that page, and you can also navigate back and forth through your Chrome browsing experience using built-in mouse gestures. Even better, you can load up the Internet Explorer rendering engine directly via Chrome for pages that don’t play well with Google’s browser.

Download Iron-Version here and ChromePlus here!

 

On page two: The Top 5 must-have Google Chrome Add-ons!


Add-ons

Google Mail Checker Plus

If you don’t use Gmail, I apologize in advance. However, this add-on is tremendously useful if you only use the Webmail version of the app, but still want to know as soon as new messages hit your inbox without having to keep a Gmail tab open all the time. Google Mail Checker Plus sticks a little icon next to your address bar and–unlike Google Mail Checker–gives you a host of configuration options, including the amount of time it should wait between checking for new mail and whether you want to always connect to Gmail via SSL, amongst other options.

Download it here!

 

Xmarks Bookmark Sync

If you haven’t heard about Xmarks Bookmark Sync, you’ve been living under a rock. Google Chrome can synchronize its bookmarks via your Google account–a great solution for keeping the list of your favorite sites up-to-date regardless of what machine you’re using Chrome on. However, if you use multiple browsers throughout your day, the built-in synchronization for Chrome will never catch the tabs in your other favorite apps. Xmarks can and will. This add-on does an excellent job of keeping a consistent database of your bookmarks regardless of the browser you’re surfing with.

Download it here!

 

LastPass

Read the description of Xmarks above. Now remove the part about Google Chrome synchronizing anything and replace all instances of the word "bookmarks" with "passwords." In short, LassPass is an awesome way to securely keep track of all your major passwords across one or many browsing apps. Instead of having to remember a ton of different passwords for all your sites, LastPass does this all for you. Once it recognizes that you’re on a site with a saved password, it’ll send an encrypted version of your login to the site automatically–a keylogger won’t work to steal your information as you won’t actually be typing in your credentials to access a site after the first time! Of course, there’s more to LastPass than just this feature, but it’s certainly one of the add-on’s bigger selling points.

Download it here!

 

Session Manager

If you’re like me, you keep a ton of tabs open for research, archiving, and "I’ll get to it later" excuses. And when your browser crashes or otherwise screws up, the built-in auto-restore might not work to speed–on Firefox, for example, an errant pop-up window can suddenly become the "last saved session" the browser remembers. If that happens, you can kiss the 40+ tabs you were saving goodbye. Session Manager allows you to save and restore browsing states as if it was nothing. This add-on is the perfect tool for preventing unexpected browser tab loss forevermore.

Download it here!

 

Adblock or Adthwart

You asked for ‘em and here they are! If Web advertising hacks you off–and I’m talking about obtrusive, in-your-face, or offensive Web advertising–then you’ll want to grab theAdblock or Adthwart add-ons to nuke these unpleasant additions to your favorite Web sites. I’m not actually sure which add-on I like better, to be honest. Your success with either will depend on your own personal preference. Both do a great job of using predefined lists to accelerate your blocking experience. However, in doing so, you might be stripping the monthly food budget of a lot of hardworking Web folk so, uh, tread… carefully?

Download Adblock here and Adthwart here!

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Freeware Files: Five Apps for Locking Down Your PC’s Security!

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For those of us who download applications, programs, extensions, or really anything off the Internet in great frequency, what’s the best way to keep a computer completely protected from external threats? I’m talking about locking down your system tighter than a Supermax prison–not impacting your ability to carry out your everyday tasks, rather, making sure that you’re protected from attack at your PC’s primary entry points.

That’s exactly what I’ll be exploring in this week’s freeware roundup: The five best free applications for keeping your computer as secure as can be. If you aren’t running some combination of these freeware and open-source apps, well, you only have yourself to blame if your system gets infected with something unpleasant!

Microsoft Security Essentials

Here’s the big one. Microsoft Security Essentials is a comprehensive antivirus and antimalware scanner that’s one of the top free offerings you can get for your system. But don’t take my word for it. According to ZDNet, Microsoft Security Essentials has showed a 98-percent detection rate when tested across 545,000 different examples of viruses, trojan horses, and other forms of malware, as well as a 90-percent detection rate when tested against 14,222 different pieces of adware and spyware. It’s also the only free application to receive “good” ratings for malware removal and leftover removal from testing conducted by AV-Comparatives.

And did I mention it’s free?

Download it here!

SuperAntiSpyware

This easy-to-use anti-spyware application offers complete protection against more than 1,000,000 different threats. It’s frequently updated and is often cited as a stronger system guard than Spybot Search & Destroy, an ol’ favorite amongst the geekier tech crowds. The program’s only downside is that it’s split into a freeware and paid-for version. The former delivers detection and removal, but you have to manually run the application each time you want to scan your system. In contrast, the paid-for version contains both real-time scanning elements and automatic, scheduled scanning–an ideal solution for the forgetful downloading enthusiast.

Download it here!

Sandboxie

You don’t have to be a little unsure about an executable you just downloaded in order to make use of the features offered by Sandboxie. As its name alludes, this virtualization program is an excellent tool for separating any downloaded program from the core contents of your system until you’ve had time to assess whether the application is both useful and malware-free. Unlike a traditional virtualized environment, which typically runs as a preinstalled operating system inside your existing OS, Sandboxie allows you to virtualize at the application level–you can prevent applications from making changes to your computer as soon as you’re done installing the program. It’s a great way to save time and effort, yet still achieve the same benefits as a virtualized operating system.

Download it here!

Google Chrome

A Web browser? Yep. Remember, this roundup focuses on security, not usability. While it’s certainly true that Mozilla Firefox offers a better browsing experience if you factor in all the fun customizations, add-ons, and themes, Google Chrome is simply a more secure Web browser. That’s because it operates as a mini-Sandboxie of sorts, virtualizing the browsing experience–per tab–overtop your operating system. Although an exploit might be able to affect Google Chrome in some fashion, there’s no way that it would be able to spill over into your operating system unless a secondary virus or piece of malware was able to disrupt the sandboxing process. I covered this process in this past week’s Murphy’s Law column, so feel free to hit that up if you’d like a little more information about Google Chrome’s comprehensive security!

Download it here!

Ultimate Boot CD

Were there a free application that symbolized the classic line from the 1986 movie Aliens, “nuke it from orbit, it’s the only way to be sure,” that would be Ultimate Boot CD. Although this Windows-based Live CD doesn’t actually destroy your system’s contents in a firey blaze, it is an extremely helpful tool for running virus and malware cleanup on a system that’s passed the point of no return. You’ll need to have a copy of Windows XP on hand in order to create the Live CD, but given the comprehensive list of system tools included with the package, it might just be worth it to pick up a copy of this older OS from the bargain bin of your favorite retailer if you don’t otherwise own it. If you can’t fix your operating system after a healthy dose of healing from the Ultimate Boot CD, you might want to save your critical files to an alternate storage location and wipe/reinstall you operating system from scratch.

Download it here!

Super-Bonus: Revo Uninstaller

If you’ve already infected your system with a bunch of unnecessary third-party software tools–like a ton of annoying Web browser toolbars or secondary programs installed alongside software you’ve downloaded–then grab Revo Uninstaller. Don’t just jump over to the Add/Remove Programs option in the Windows Control Panel. In fact, don’t even run said applications’ built-in uninstallation executables. Revo Uninstaller will do this all for you and, as a special bonus, it’ll scan your system for any lingering files or registry entries that the programs’ uninstallation routines didn’t catch. For the ultimate in crap-free uninstalling, Revo Uninstaller is the best application you could possibly have on-hand… or on a portable USB key!

Download it here!

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20 Essential Tricks Every Skype User Should Know

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Spend a little time learning Skype and you’ll soon discover it’s much more than a one-trick pony. Sure, Skype’s bread and butter is still its ability to let users make phone calls using their broadband connection, but there’s so much more you can do with this versatile app.

There are the basics, like sending and receiving instant messages with other Skype users. But did you ever think to use Skype as a make-shift home surveillance system while you’re away at work? By following a few simple steps, you can see if Fido’s chewing on the couch again, and if so, issue a stern warning to cut it out.

You can also use Skype to record your own Podcast, weekly rant and all. We’ll show you how, but that’s not all. We’re also going to walk you through an assortment of tweaks and hacks to get the most out of this Swiss-army utility. Consider this your go-to guide for making the most out of Skype.

Properly Set up Your Headset

Because Skype is first and foremost a VoIP client, the first thing you’ll want to do is spend a litte time getting your headset and microphone working properly. To start with, click on Tools, expand the General tab in the left-hand column, and select Audio settings.

This is where you’ll configure Skype to use the proper devices. Under the Microphone pull-down menu, select the mic you want to use. If you’re using a notebook with a built-in webcam or have a webcam attached to your desktop, it probably has an integrated mic. In our experience, these are usually low quality and pick up a ton of background noise. Use your headset’s mic instead, or consider investing in a standalone microphone.

Now turn your attention to the speakers pull-down the menu, and once again, select the appropriate speakers settings. Ideally, Skype will switch to your PC’s speakers when you unplug your headset, but if you’re not hearing any sound, open up the sound options and adjust it manually.

We typically adjust both the microphone and speaker sliders to about 90 percent in Skype and disable the automatic adjustments for each by unchecking the appropriate boxes. Instead, we’ll adjust these manually within Windows sound properties. To get there, right-click the sound icon in the systray and select Recording. Double-click on Microphone and select the Levels tab. Adjust the microphone volume to anywhere between 75 to 90, depending on how sensitive your mic is. If it’s still not loud enough, adjust the Microphone Boost setting.

To test out your settings, you can phone a friend, or buzz Skype Test Call, which will allow you to record a message and play it back to test your audio settings.

Stop Accidentally Calling Your Contacts

If you’re like us, you’re constantly ringing your contacts when you meant to send them a quick IM instead. Should you quickly hang up and hope they realize it was a mistake, or let it ring through and play it off like you had something urgent to discuss? Better yet, let’s prevent these situations from occurring in the first place.

Click on Tools>Options>General Settings. At the very top, uncheck the ‘When I double-click on a contact start a call’ checkbox and click save. Wasn’t that easy?

Set up an Answering Machine

With an unlimited subscription plan, voicemail comes standard, and it only runs about $3/month. Or you can buy voicemail service separately as a 3 month subscription for $6, or 12 months for $20. These are pretty reasonable rates if you’re a heavy Skype user, but it’s still an out-of- pocket expense.

Enter SAM, which stands for Skype Answering Machine. This handy add-on lives up to its name and should be the first app you attach to any Skype installation. When your status changes to ‘Away,’ SAM will intercept phone calls (you can configure how many rings until SAM kicks in) and plays a standard answer machine message followed by a beep. If the caller decides to leave a message, you’ll be able to play it back when you return to your PC.

Just like a real answering machine, SAM lets you record your own greeting and can auto-reject call waiting.

Free, www.kishkish.com

Discover Hidden Emoticons

By default, Skype includes one-click access to no less than 72 emoticons running the gamut from putting lipstick on to sending a rain cloud, and everything in between. But guess what? Skyp’e’s holding out on you. What if you’re in the mood to moon somebody? Or maybe the person you’re talking with has driven you to bang your head on the wall. There’s an emoticon for that.

You can find an expanded list of emoticons right here, along with each one’s keyboard shortcut. But wait, there’s still more! In addition to the multitude of smileys, Skype also includes emoticons for nearly every country under the sun, even Canada. Get your scroll wheel ready and spy an expanded cheat sheet here.

If nothing else, memorize these ten mostly self- explanatory emoticon shortcuts and you’ll be prepared for just about any situation:

  1. (puke)
  2. (party)
  3. (finger)
  4. (swear)
  5. (banghead)
  6. (tmi)
  7. (drunk)
  8. (punch)
  9. (y)
  10. (n)

Organize Your Contacts

Finding a single contact out of 10 or 15 is a piece of cake. But what about sifting through dozens, or even hundreds of Skype users? That’s a bit more time consuming, especially when you’re wading through a mix of real names and pseudonyms all clumped together in a massive, scrollable list. Take control of your contact list by employing a few simple strategies.

Rename Your Contacts

Remember using a Rolodex? For the younger generation, a Rolodex is like your iPhone’s address book, except it’s made out of trees (Family Guy fans will get that reference). Either way, it’s a lot easier to sort through your social network by organizing everyone based on their birth name, not their Internet nick. Would you really think to look for Jeff Reece under ‘X’ for ‘XCaptainCrunchX’?

Like any instant messaging app worth it’s salt, Skype lets you rename your contacts. All you have to do is right-click on a contact and select ‘Rename.’ If you want, you can put the person’s nickname in parenthesis, like this: Jeff Reece (XCaptainCrunchX).

Create Groups

Even though you may have dozens of contacts, you probably find yourself chatting with the same groups of people on a consistent basis. For example, do you play poker or any other online game with same handful of friends? Creating a group will save you time by not having to click on each one individually every time you want to start up a chat or voice conference.

To set up a group, click on Contacts>Create New Group. Add contacts by dragging and dropping them to the designated area (right-click and select ‘remove person from this group’ if you accidentally add someone you didn’t intend), and when you’re finished, click the ‘Save group in Contacts’ button and give your group a name. The group you just created will now show up in your contacts list.

Whittle Down with Categories

By setting up categories, you can clump your family, friends, co-workers, and anyone else into handy containers that make it much easier to narrow down your contacts and find who it is you want to talk with.

Start by navigating to Contacts>Contact Categories>Create New Category. At the top of your contacts list, it will say New Category. If you want to create one for your co-workers, drag and drop the names of everyone you work with to the designated area. When you’re finished, right-click ‘New Category’ to rename it. Now whenever you want to sort by categories, just click on the arrow.

Hide Offline Contacts

By default, Skype drops offline contacts to the bottom of the list, but the OCD in us still wants a cleaner layout. To hide offline friends from view, click on Contacts>Hide Contacts Who>Are Offline. You can also hide contacts who haven’t yet shared their contact information with you, or just those who are offline with call forwarding.

Beef Up Your Contacts (by Importing from Email)

You can quickly and easily import contacts from your email address book into Skype, and you may even discover that some of your contacts are already using Skype. This is also a great way to invite your network of friends, family, and co-workers to register for a Skype account.

To do this, navigate to Contacts>Import Contacts… This will bring up a window with different email options: Gmail, Windows Live Hotmail, AOL, and Other. Mashing the Other button displays a pretty extensive pull-down menu with a bunch of other email services and clients, including Microsoft Outlook. Choose whichever email client you want to import contacts from, type in your username and password (if applicable), and press Import.

In the next step, you’ll be given an opportunity to select as many or as few of the contacts Skype digs up. And then yet another chance to change your mind when you’re prompted to enter a personalized message with your contact request.

Deliver a One-Two Combo to Spam

We’re not sure there’s any rhyme or reason for it, but it seems as though we’ll go weeks without any rogue IMs, and then all of a sudden be bombarded with spam messages through the course of a few days. Or at least that’s what used to happen before we took matters into our own hands.

The easiest way to send spammers packing is by refusing to receive messages from anyone not in your contact list. By default, anyone is allowed to contact you. To change this, navigate to Tools>Options>Privacy. Click the ‘Only allow people in my Contact list to contact me’ radio button and mash the Save button.

For more fine grain control over your privacy settings, click the ‘Show Advanced Options’ button. This will allow you to setup Skype so that only your contacts can send you a message, but anyone can call you, or vice versa. There’s also a few other self-explanatory options you can configure to fit your needs.

Random spammers pushing their wares and scams aren’t the only nuisances you’ll encounter. Out of the box, Skype will hit you between the eyes with fairly frequent (and annoying) pop-up messages.To disable these, navigate to Tools>Options>Notifications. Click on ‘Alerts & Messages’ and uncheck both options.


Send an SMS Message

Sending a text message through Skype is easy, but it isn’t free. The cost to send an SMS in the United States runs around $.013 (see rates here), which is a tough pill to swallow considering you probably have an unlimited text message plan through your mobile carrier.

So why even bother sending an SMS via Skype? Convenience, for one. While we’re not going to send a ton of texts through Skype, it can come in handy if you left your smartphone in another room or at home. In a pinch, a little bit of loose change is a fair trade off for the occasional urgent message. It’s also nice being able to type out our texts with a full sized keyboard rather than resorting to shorthand on your virtual and/or slide-out plank.

To send an SMS, you first need to associate a mobile number with one of your contacts. To do this, select a name from your contact list and hit the ‘Add a telephone number’ button on the right-hand side. Punch in the mobile number and press the checkmark. To send an SMS to the mobile number, just right-click on the contact and select ‘Send an SMS message.’

When you send an SMS this way, you’ll be identified by your Skype name and recipients will not be able to reply. Skype lets you change this so that you’re identified by your mobile number instead, and this also makes it possible for recipients to send a reply. To set it up like this, click on Tools>Options>IM & SMS>SMS settings. Click on the ‘Verify your mobile phone number’ link and enter in your phone number (note that you’ll be charged Skype’s text messaging fee to verify your number).

Here’s where Skype can get a little fussy. In this next step, you’re supposed to enter in your mobile number and mash the Send button, at which point Skype will text you a verification code. But what do you do if the Send button remains grayed out? It’s doesn’t mean your phone is incompatible, it’s just quirk with Skype. Click on the flag icon and change it to another country (it doesn’t matter which one), and then change it back to the U.S. flag. Now when you type in your mobile number, the Send button will come alive.

In a few seconds, you’ll receive a verification code. Punch this into the second text box and hit Submit. Once your number has been verified, hit Save and exit.

Play Music Through Your Speakers While Chatting with Your Headset

In order to listen to background music while placing a Skype call, you either have to pipe your conversation through your computer speakers along with your groovy tunes, or play music through your headset, which can make it hard to hear the person on the other end of the line. Fortunately, there’s a way to separate the two.

If you haven’t already configured Skype to use your headset, go to Tools>Options>Audio Settings and select the appropriate device in the Speakers pull-down menu.

Next we need to setup our PC to blast our tunes through the speakers. Right-click the Sound icon in the Systray (alternately, you can type Sound in the Start menu and click on Sound under the Control Panel) and select Playback devices. Right-click the Speakers icon and select ‘Set as default device.’ After you do this, there should be two green checkmarks, one next to the Headphones icon and another next to Speakers.

By default, whenever you make a call, your speakers will automatically adjust the volume of all other sounds by 80 percent. As a courtesy to the person on the other end of the line, it isn’t a bad idea to leave it this way so they’re not forced to listen to your music (some people just aren’t into Bluegrass). But if you want to retain full control of your speakers’ volume, select the Communications tab in the Sound properties windows and click the Do nothing radio button.


Create Your Own Podcast

Using Skype, you can create your own professional sounding Podcasts that rival the sound quality of those using much more expensive equipment. And provided no one is using a $0.25 microphone picked up from Walmart’s clearance bin, you may find that your Podcast sounds better than most radio interviews where it’s clear the guest is speaking through a telephone rather than sitting in the studio next to the DJ.

Image Credit: Razer

Don’t get us wrong, you don’t need an ultra-expensive microphone, but we suggest using one with noise canceling capabilities so you don’t end up broadcasting sounds from the background. And generally speaking, you should avoid using the mic that comes built into most webcams and notebooks, as these tend to be pretty low quality. Headsets with built-in microphones typically work well.

The next order of business is to shut down any programs you’re not using, particularly any app that taps into your Internet bandwidth. Is Outlook running? Shut it down. Downloading a torrent? Pause it and close uTorrent. You don’t want anything running that could potentially degrade the sound quality of Skype, especially if you plan on including multiple recipients in your podcast.

Next, download the latest version of Audacity from here. If you’re running Windows 7, we suggest installing the latest beta release, which is currently version 1.3.9. We ran into some quirks running the latest stable build on our Windows Home Professional 64-bit testbed, but the beta release ran without a hitch.

Due to the murky legal waters surrounding software patents, Audacity opts not to bundle and distribute an MP3 encoder with its recording software. And that’s just fine, because it’s easy enough add an encoder ourselves. To do so, download the LAME (Lame Ain’t an Mp3 Encoder) from here and install to the default directory.

When it’s finished installing, fire up Audacity and navigate to Edit>Preferences>Libraries. Click the Locate button and then press Okay.

Here’s where things get a little tricky. Starting with Vista, the ability to record sounds from your PC’s audio channels have been stripped away, or at least it would appear that way at first glance. It’s widely believed this was done to prevent end users from recording streaming audio, such as songs from an online radio station (isn’t DRM grand?). Unfortunately, this also prevents us from recording other Skype users.

To get around this, we need to re-enable the Stereo Mix option as a recording device. Right-click the sound icon in the Systray and select Recording devices. Next, right-click any of the devices and check the option to ‘Show Disabled Devices.’ If your soundcard supports Stereo Mix, you should now the see the option lightly grayed out. Right-click and select Enable.

If you don’t see the Stereo Mix option, it’s possible your sound solution doesn’t support the option, either at the hardware level or by restricting access at the driver level. Either way, there’s no easy remedy short of investing in a discrete soundcard that supports Stereo Mix, such as Razer’s Barracuda AC-1 or Creative’s X-Fi series (Creative calls Stereo Mix ‘What U Hear’).

We’re almost ready to start recording. Fire up Audacity again if you previously closed it down, then navigate to Edit>Preferences>Audio I/O (depending on which version of Audacity you have, Audio I/O might also be labeled Devices). In the Device pull-down menu under Recording, select Stereo Mix (or What U Hear).

Jump over to the Quality section in Audacity’s Preferences tree on the left-hand side. Change the Default Sample Rate to 16000Hz. This will strike a good balance between sound quality and file size, but if you truly need a higher quality recording, play around with higher sample rates.

Now you’re ready to start recording! Once you and your guest(s) are ready, just hit the record button. If everything is set up correctly, you’ll see the audio track updated in real-time. If not, you need to retrace your steps to see where you might have went wrong, or adjust your microphone’s volume.

Spend some time playing around with Audacity to learn the program’s intricacies. When you’re finished recording, you can delete awkward moments of silence or other undesirable parts of the recording you don’t want included in the final product. You can also add in background music and sound effects by recording additional streams. We’re not going to cover all the tricks you can do with Audacity (at least not in this guide), but as you play around, you’ll soon discover it’s a pretty powerful recording program that belies its free price tag.

The last order of business is to save your finished recording as an MP3 file. Click File>Export and fill in the Metadata form (track title, track number, and so forth). After you’ve tagged your Podcast, mash the OK button and select MP3 from the Save as type pull-down menu.


Make Skype Calls with Your Smartphone

It took a little while for Skype to get with the times, but it’s finally possible to integrate the VoIP service with your smartphone and call other Skype users from your handset. It’s still a little bit rocky, but serviceable for the most part.

If you own a G1 or other Android-based handset, hit up the Google Market and search for Skype Lite Beta. After you install the app, you’ll be prompted for your username, password, and phone number. We had mixed results getting the beta to work properly, but when it does work, the cool thing is you don’t need a 3G or Wi-Fi connection. Calls to other Skype users are free, minus any local rates and minutes charges through your wireless carrier. Receiving calls, however, is not free, though you have the option of disabling this function.

Image Credit: gadgetell.com

Alternately, Android owners can also give iSkoot a spin. This app works pretty much the same way Skype Lite Beta does, so if you’ve having trouble getting one to work, try the other.

So what happens if you want to make a Skype call through your iPhone? There’s an app for that (see what we did there?). You can download the Skype app for the iPhone and iPod touch here, and unlike Android owners, the iPhone/iPod touch version sports a slicker interface with a few more options.

For a full list of compatible handsets, rate information, and other FAQs, see here.

Have Skype Send You a Wake Up Call

Don’t trust hotel management to send you a wake up call in the morning? If you need a wake up call, Skype can oblige.

This hack takes a bit of preparation in order to work properly. On your home PC, or whichever system you’re configuring to make the wake up call, you’ll need to disable UAC. Click on Start and type UAC. Drag the slider down to Never notify and hit OK.

Next, open up Skype and navigate to Tools>Options>Advanced. Check that box that reads ‘Use Skype to call callto: links on the web.’

The ability to place wake up calls isn’t integrated into Skype, so we’re going to tap into Windows to get the job done. To do this, we need to create a scheduled task. Click on the Start menu, type Task Scheduler, and then click on the Task Scheduler link. In the right-hand pane under Actions, click on Create Basic Task…

This opens up the Basic Task Wizard, which will walk you through process creating an automated task. In the first step, you’ll give your task a name. In this case, go ahead and name it Skype Wake Up Call. Add a description in the designated area if desired, otherwise click on Next.

On the next screen, you’ll choose when you want this task to start. For a one-time wake up call, select the One time radio button. Alternately, you can configure your wake up call to occur daily, weekly, or monthly. Click Next.

The next screen is where you’ll choose a time and date. Be sure to pay attention the AM and PM setting so you don’t accidentally set a wake up call 12 hours too late or too early! Click Next.

This brings up the Action menu. Click the Start a program radio button and press Next.

In this next step, we’re going to direct the Task Scheduler to the Skype executable. Click on the Browse button and find Skype.exe. By default, this should be in C:Program Files (x86)SkypePhone. In the Add arguments (optional) field, type /callto:+1xxxxxxxxxx and input your mobile phone number, including area code, in place of each ‘x.’ So for example if your mobile phone number is 555-555-1234, you would type /callto: +15555551234.

There’s one more step we need to take to make sure the wake up call goes through without a hitch. In the main Task Scheduler window, click on Task Scheduler Library. In the pane immediately to the right, find the Task you created (Skype Wake Up Call). If you don’t see it, you may need to exit and restart the Task Scheduler. Right-click the task and select Run. If you followed the above steps correctly, Skype should now open automatically and try to call your mobile phone, but the process gets halted by a pop-up window alerting you that you’re about to call a number (duh). Click the ‘Do not ask me again’ checkbox and hit OK.

That’s it! The next time this task runs (at the designated time), your PC should fire up Skype and call your mobile phone. Just be aware that this taps into your Skype credit, so make sure you have enough in your account for a wake up call.


Backup Skype Configuration and Chat History

Whether switching to another computer or reinstalling Windows (and thus Skype), you needn’t lose your instant messaging history, nor do you need to start over from scratch and re-configure all your settings.

To backup your chat history and configuration in Vista and Windows 7, navigate to C:Users[USERNAME]AppDataRoamingSkype. If you’re running Windows XP, go to C:Documents and Settings[USERNAME]ApplicationDataSkype. Find a folder in the directory with your Skype username and copy this to a USB stick or CD/DVD. When you reinstall Skype, transfer this folder into the same directory.

Sync Skype on Multiple PCs

You can think of Dropbox as chocolate syrup. Why? Because it makes everything sweeter, and Skype is no exception. We just showed you how to backup your Skype configuration files and chat history for importing to another machine, but what if you wanted to sync your Skype install on multiple PCs? With a little bit of tweaking — and some help from Dropbox — you can do just that. Here’s how.

First, download Dropbox from here and install it on every machine you plan to sync. Close down Skype. If you’re using Windows 7 or Vista, navigate to C:Users[USERNAME]AppDataRoaming (Windows XP users will navigate to C:Documents and Settings[User Name]Application Data Folder). Move (don’t copy) the Skype folder to your Dropbox location. The easiest way to do this is to right-click the folder, select the Cut command, and then paste it into Dropbox (right-click, Paste).

Now that we’ve moved the folder out of its default location, we need to trick Skype into thinking it’s still there. To do this, we need to create what’s called a symbolic link in the original directory that appears to be the real deal, but really just redirects to the new location in our Dropbox folder. As far as Skype is concerned, the folder will appear to still be in its original location, even though it’s not.

Click on Start and type CMD (in Windows XP, click Start>Run>CMD and hit enter). Right-click the CMD executable and select Run as Administrator. To create a symbolic link, type the following command:

mklink “C:UsersPaulAppDataRoamingSkype” “C:UsersPaulDesktopMy Dropbox Skype”

Notice the quotation marks that enclose both the original and new location of our Skype folder. Also be sure to alter the above command depending on where your Dropbox folder is located, as well as the original folder location.

Repeat the above steps on your work PC, laptop, or wherever else you have Skype installed and your conversations will remain synced.

Ditch Skype’s 4.0 Interface in Windows 7

Skype’s developers not only added a bunch of new features in version 4, they also gave the app a major face lift. Some have praised the new layout and UI, while others believe Skype took a major step backwards. If you fall into the latter camp, you’ve probably been chugging along with version 3.8.0.188, the latest 3.x release before 4.0

That’s all fine and dandy, except that it doesn’t play particularly nice with 64- bit versions of Windows 7. Many have reported that the older version installs just fine, but when you try to fire up the app, it crashes before you have a chance to log in. We’ve run into this issue ourselves and set out to find a solution. Well guess what? We found one.

If you’re having trouble getting an version 3.8 to run, revert back to version 3.6, which you can find over at FileHippo.com or OldVersion.com. Skype 3.6.0.248, the latest release before 3.8, doesn’t appear to suffer the same setback in Windows 7. Just be warned that by going back so far, you’ll be running a dated app that’s several versions behind the latest release, which means you’re missing out on added features and potentially leaving yourself open to unpatched bugs and security risks.


Set up a Home Surveillance System

Do you really know what your pets are up to when you leave for work? Want to catch the underwear gnomes red handed? A surveillance system is just what you need, but these tend to be pricey and sometimes difficult to set up and maintain. Not so with Skype.

For this to work, you’ll need a second account. Once you’ve registered an alternate alias, sign in to Skype using the new credentials. Click on Tools>Options>Privacy and click all of the ‘people in my Contact list only” radio button (there should be four). This will ensure that spammers don’t end up tying up your home surveillance account. Click the same radio button option under Calls>Call settings and IM & SMS>IM settings.

Next, navigate to Tools>Options>Video Setting and select both radio buttons that read ‘people in my Contact list only.’

Now head over to Tools>Options>Calls and mash the ‘Show advanced options’ button. Check both the ‘Answer incoming calls’ and ‘Start my video automatically when I am in a call’ checkboxes.

That’s all there is to it! Leave your home PC running while you’re away at work or on vacation and call up your secondary account whenever you want to check in. Keep yours speakers turned on if you want to talk to your pets.

Interrogate Your Callers

Feel like you’re being a fed a line of bull? Maybe that’s because you are! But don’t torture yourself by replaying the sketchy conversation in your head all day long, and instead let KishKish’s Lie Detector give you a hand.

Once installed, this free ‘Skype Extra’ sits in the background and analyzes your caller’s voice. Stress levels are updated in real-time, so in theory, you should be able to tell right away when someone’s trying to pull a fast one. In practice? Consider this a fun parlor trick and not a polygraph replacement.

Grab the download by navigating to Tools>EXtras>Get Extras and search for KishKish Lie Detector. Keep in mind that a message will be played letting callers know what you’re up to, so you’re not going to catch anyone off guard.

Free, Skype Extras (KishKish Lie Detector)

Play a Song for Your Caller

Her’s a great add-on that comes in handy when you want to share a groovy tune with a friend, maybe even one you created yourself. Call Player comes with a handful of built-in sounds, including a Happy Birthday jingle, but you can add as many sounds and songs as you want. Play them during a Skype session by mashing the ‘Play in Call now!!!’ button.

This isn’t the slickest app out there — songs have to first be converted to WAV, which is handled automatically but takes a little bit to finish, and you can only add one file at a time — but for a one-trick pony, it’s a neat utility to add to your arsenal.

Free, Sype Extras (Call Player)


Collaborate with Sketch Pad

Our guess is you can probably use Sketch Pad for actual productivity purposes, like collaborating on a project and brainstorming with others. But in reality, you’ll find yourself drawing inappropriate pictures, playing Hangman, talking smack (with pictures), and just goofing off in general. In other words, we really like this time waster.

Record Calls to Gmail

Skype automatically keeps a history of all your IM conversations, but G-Recorder one-ups the built-in functionality by keeping a log of IM conversations and voice chats.. They’re both automatically sent to your Gmail account where they’re labeled and archived by type (Skype Calls, Skype Chats) for easy viewing or listening. You can also have G-Recorder store a copy of your phone call session on your PC as an MP3 file.

Because of the way Skype handles its Extras features, you won’t know that this isn’t a free application until after you install it. The trial’s good for 14 days, and while the program normally sells for $25, G-Recorder has been sending out coupon codes to new users for 30 percent off, bringing the total down to $17.50. In our opinion, it’s worth it.

$25 ($17.50 after coupon code), Skype Extras (G-Recorder)

Integrate Skype with Pidgin

Not a lot of IM clients support Skype, and that’s just frustrating. But if you use Pidgin, you’re in luck. The Skype API Plugin allows you to setup your Skype account with the multiprotocol client, though there’s a catch. For it to work, you still need to have Skype running in the background (the plugin forces it to run silent). The upshot is you’ll have access to all of your contacts within Pidgin’s interface. Is the trade off worth it? We’ll let you decide that one for yourself.

Free, Skype API Plugin

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Complete Guide to Troubleshooting USB Problems

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The “U” in USB stands for “Universal”, and no other I/O port does so much for so many computer users as USB. From providing a home for keyboards and mice to driving printers, scanners, all-in-one units, and providing access to terabytes of storage and the Internet, USB ports do it all. That also means that USB-related problems can cripple your PC, leaving it unable to access storage, input, and output devices.

Tracking down the causes of USB-related woes can be difficult, but in this article, we show you the common and uncommon causes for USB problems – and their solutions.

USB Troubleshooting 101

Recent operating systems include drivers for common USB devices, such as keyboards, mice, and storage devices. If one of these devices is not recognized when you plug it into a USB port, try another USB port on the computer itself (we’ll discuss troubleshooting ports built into hubs later), preferably a USB port built into the port cluster on the rear of a desktop PC.

If the device works in some USB ports, but not others, note the ports that are not working. This information will be used to help determine if the cause is the hardware setup at the BIOS level or at the Windows driver or Device Manager level.

If the device works on another PC, but not on yours, the problem lies with your PC. However, if the device doesn’t work on any PC, it’s time to replace the cable, or the device itself.

Even if you never have a USB device that doesn’t work at all, you might see one of the following messages when you plug a USB device into your computer or into an external hub:

“This device can perform faster”

To solve this problem, we need to see how USB ports are configured in the system BIOS – and find out what type of USB hub is in use.

“Hub power exceeded”

This problem, on the other hand, requires a trip to the Windows Device Manager.

Diagnosing USB Port Problems in BIOS Setup

BIOS setup is the place to check if you have any of the following USB problems:

- Your system doesn’t recognize a mainstream USB device, such as a printer, mouse, or storage device, in any USB port.

- You get a “This device can perform faster” error message when you plug a Hi-Speed USB (aka USB 2.0) device into any port on a recent computer.

- You can use a USB drive for storage, but you can’t boot from it, and you’ve verified the drive is a bootable device.

- You can use a USB keyboard in Windows, but not for accessing the BIOS at system startup.

To check BIOS settings, restart your computer and press the appropriate key to open the BIOS setup menu.

Tip: If you are unable to access the BIOS setup menu with a USB keyboard, plug in a PS/2 (6-pin DIN) keyboard (if your system has a PS/2 keyboard port). It’s worthwhile keeping an old PS/2 keyboard around for troubleshooting. Some USB keyboards can also be adapted to PS/2.

Checking for “Missing” USB Ports in BIOS Setup

Once you have the BIOS settings menu open, what’s next? Typically, you will find USB port settings in the Integrated Ports or Integrated Peripherals menu:

If the USB controller or host controller is disabled, no USB ports will be recognized by Windows, and consequently no USB devices will be recognized either.

What if some USB ports are usable, but others are not? Some systems enable you to specify the number of USB ports in BIOS setup.

To solve problems with “missing” USB ports, make sure the following settings are enabled:

USB controller

USB 2.0 controller (aka USB EHCI controller)

USB legacy support

Save changes, exit BIOS setup, and your system will restart, providing access to USB ports.

Tip: If you are unable to use a USB keyboard in BIOS setup, but it works after Windows boots, there’s a problem with USB keyboard or legacy support. Change the setting, or contact your system or motherboard vendor for a BIOS update.


Missing USB 2.0 Support

USB 2.0 support has been included in virtually all systems built in the last five years or so. However, it’s possible to configure a system so USB 2.0 support is disabled.

On most systems that include USB port options in the system BIOS, you can specify whether to run USB ports in 1.1 or 2.0 (Hi-Speed USB) modes. Depending upon the system, you might see separate entries for USB controller and USB 2.0 controller in BIOS setup, or BIOS setup might have a single entry for USB controller with the option to enable 1.1 support only or 1.1/2.0 support.

Make sure USB 2.0 support is enabled, save changes, exit BIOS setup, and your system will restart, providing USB 2.0 support.

Note: If you have an old system that was never updated to Windows XP SP1 or later, its USB 2.0 ports will run only in USB 1.1 mode, regardless of the BIOS setting, until SP1 or later is installed (SP1 added USB 2.0 support). So, if you’re reinstalling Windows XP original edition, make sure you install SP3 immediately, if not sooner (see our article on using the free nLite utility to do this).

Diagnosing USB Power Management Problems

Some systems cannot wake up a system from S3 (deep sleep) power management mode unless this option is enabled in the system BIOS. If you are unable to wake up your system by tapping on a USB keyboard or moving the mouse, make sure this option is enabled in the system BIOS.

Diagnosing USB Problems with Device Manager

If you’re still having problems with some USB ports after making sure that the BIOS settings are correct, the next stop for Windows users is Device Manager.

In Device Manager, USB 2.0 controllers are listed as Enhanced, while USB 1.1 are listed as OpenHCD. Note that a single USB 2.0 controller can manage all USB ports built into the motherboard, while each root hub requires its own OpenHCD controller.

Note: If your system does not have USB 2.0 support enabled in the BIOS, an Enhanced controller entry will not appear in Device Manager.

Root Hubs and Generic Hubs

You won’t find USB ports listed by that name in Device Manager. Instead, Device Manager lists USB ports by host device:

- Root hub

- Generic hub

Root hubs host USB ports connected to the computer’s motherboard or add-on USB host adapter card. A root hub typically hosts two USB ports in 1.1 mode, and the root hub on a system with USB 2.0 support hosts all of the USB ports built into the system. To determine the number of ports a root hub hosts, open a root hub’s properties sheet in Device Manager and click the Power tab.

If a root hub is disabled in Device Manager, devices connected to the hub cannot be used and are no longer displayed in Device Manager.

To enable a disabled root hub, right-click the hub and select Enable from the right-click menu. Follow any prompts displayed to complete the process.

Generic hubs are external devices that host USB ports. A generic hub plugs into a USB port, enabling the port to service multiple devices. By daisy-chaining generic hubs to a root hub, a single USB port can support up to 127 devices.

Generic hubs are available in a variety of forms, from standalone devices that include four or more USB ports to keyboards and monitors that include USB ports. Because some generic hubs are self-powered, and some are bus-powered, generic hubs can cause power problems for some USB devices.


Hubs and USB Power Problems

One of the most poorly understood causes of USB problems is the difference between self-powered and bus-powered hubs. Self-powered hubs include root hubs (which draw current from the computer’s power supply) and generic hubs that are connected to AC power. These hubs provide 500mA of current to each USB port.

Generic hubs that do not have an AC power source are bus-powered, and provide only 100mA of current to each USB port.

Bus-powered hubs are suitable hosts for USB devices that use little power, such as keyboards, most mice, printers, and external hard disks that use AC power. However, device power requirements vary widely, and other types of popular devices, such as portable hard disks, flash memory drives and card readers, and game controllers with force feedback often cannot operate when plugged into a bus-powered hub.

To determine the power requirements for any USB device, open the Power tab for the root or generic hub the device is plugged into.

The devices shown in this example must be plugged into a self-powered USB hub, as they require more than 100mA of current.

However, the devices shown in this example can be plugged into either a bus-powered or self-powered hub, as they require less than 100mA of current.

Dangers of Exceeding Available Hub Power

If you plug a device that requires more power than the hub can provide, what happens?

If you plug a device that requires more than 100mA of current into a bus-powered hub, you will see a “Hub Power Exceeded” message.

Click the message to see a listing of other ports that you can use.

While the listing isn’t specific, keep in mind that any built-in USB port is connected to a root hub, and will therefore provide 500mA of power – enough for almost all devices.

What happens if you plug a device that requires more than 100mA of power into a self-powered hub that becomes disconnected from its AC power supply? At that point, the hub becomes a bus-powered hub, the voltage per port drops to 100mA, and, if you have a flash drive plugged into the port, you might destroy it.

To avoid disaster, consider this advice:

-    Think twice before using a bus-powered hub.

-    If you use a bus-powered hub, make sure you know the current requirements for all USB devices you plan to use with the hub. Any device that requires more than 100mA of current will not work with a bus-powered hub.

-    If you’re worried about forgetting to check current requirements before you plug in a new device, use a self-powered hub.

-    If you already have a bus-powered hub and are frustrated because some devices will not work with it, replace it or connect the hub to a compatible AC adapter.


Hubs and USB Performance Problems

Most, but not all, USB generic hubs sold today support USB 2.0 speeds – but there are innumerable USB 1.1-only hubs still in use. If you plug a USB 2.0 device into a USB 1.1 hub, you will see the same “This device can perform faster” error message you would see if you had plugged the device into a USB 1.1 port on the computer.

How can you tell how fast a USB hub will run? There are two methods I use:

-    Check for markings on the hub

-    Check the properties sheet for the hub

Most USB 2.0 hubs are labeled as such. However, an unlabeled hub might also support USB 2.0 speeds.

To determine the speeds supported by a USB hub, follow this procedure:

1. Plug a USB 2.0 device, such as a storage device or wireless adapter, into one of the ports on the hub.

2. Open Device Manager.

3. Expand the Universal Serial Bus Controllers category.

4. Open the properties sheet for the hub.

5. Open the Power tab and look for the device you connected in Step 1.

6. Repeat steps 4-5 until you find the correct hub.

7. Open the Advanced tab and note the hub’s performance level. A hub that supports USB 2.0 speeds will run at high-speed. A hub that supports only USB 1.1 speeds will run at full-speed.

Note that some desktops with front-mounted USB ports run these ports in USB 1.1 mode only.

USB Hub and Device Power Management Problems and Solutions

By default, USB root and generic hubs are configured to enable the PC to turn off the device automatically to save power. However, USB devices are configured by default to enable the device to wake up the system.

If your system cannot be awakened from standby, check these settings, as well as the power management settings in the system BIOS.


Cables and USB Device Compatibility

USB cables not made for high-power (over 100mA) devices can cause those devices to fail. Typically, thicker cables (such as the white cable shown below) use 28AWG cable, which is capable of carrying full power to any USB device, while thinner cables (such as the gray one shown below) use thinner cable of unspecified gauge. Smaller-gauge cable prevents full power transmission to the device.

While using an underperforming USB cable won’t cause the device to be damaged, it can be frustrating to need an extension or other cable doesn’t work with some devices.

The second factor is the rise of alternative device cable connections. At one time, virtually all USB devices, with the exception of digital cameras, used the standard B cable connector. With most current devices, except for printers, the standard B connector has been replaced by the five-pin mini-B cable. And, some devices use four-pin mini-B cables or Mini-A cables. To be prepared for any eventuality, consider keeping a universal USB 2.0 cable handy (like the one in the photo below).

The third factor is the need to exceed 500mA at startup with some portable USB hard disk drives. Some onboard USB ports are capable of proving more current to spin up these drives, while others are not. Keep in mind that self-powered generic hubs typically cannot provide additional power for these drives.

If you cannot use a single USB cable to provide sufficient power with some systems, use a double-headed cable. One connector provides power and data services from a single USB port, while the other provides additional power from a second USB port. Some portable hard disk vendors supply this type of cable, while others make it an extra-cost option.

USB Driver Problems and Solutions

Because recent versions of Windows recognize standard USB devices such as mice, keyboards, and storage devices without the need to install drivers, it’s easy to forget that a plug-and-play installation is possible only when the computer has the appropriate driver already installed.

If you plug a USB device into a computer that does not already have the appropriate drivers installed, you will be prompted to run the Found New Hardware Wizard.

Continue only if the installation instructions for the device recommend doing so. In most cases, however, you need to run the device installation program provided on the device’s driver CD before Windows can install the device. In such cases, click Cancel, disconnect the device, and install the driver for the device first.

Once the device is installed, you might be able to update the drivers with the device’s Driver tab on the properties sheet in Device Manager.

Conclusion

Want to avoid having USB problems at all? Here are some best practices that you should follow to get your ports in order.

-    Make sure your computer is configured to run USB ports in USB 2.0 mode

-    Upgrade systems running original Windows XP to SP1 or greater

-    Avoid using bus-powered USB hubs with most bus-powered peripherals other than mice, keyboards, and some types of game controllers

-    Avoid using USB 1.1-compatible hubs with USB 2.0 devices such as storage, printer, scanner, and multifunction devices

-    Use the Device Manager properties sheets for USB ports and devices to solve problems

-    Make sure you install driver software for new USB devices before you connect them to your system

-    Replace USB cables not designed for high-powered devices with thicker USB 2.0-compliant cables

-    Check power management settings in BIOS and Device Manager for USB ports and devices

Mark Edward Soper is the co-author of the new book CompTIA A+ 220-701 220-702 Cert Guide, with Scott Mueller and David L. Prowse (Pearson).

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20 Essential Tricks and Skills Every BitTorrent User Should Know

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Every week, we’re going to spotlight a popular program or service and show you how to grab hold of the reigns and get the most out of what you’re doing. We already kicked off the series with guides to tweaking Outlook and Firefox, and today we turn our attention to BitTorrent.

BitTorrent, as you’re probably already aware, is a decentralized peer-to-peer file sharing protocol ideal for transferring large files (and if you didn’t know that, don’t worry, we also include some lightweight tips to get you started). In a nutshell, the way it works is when you’re downloading a massive file — like a Linux distribution, for example –bits and pieces of the file will be uploaded at the same time. Typically BitTorrent allows for a more efficient and faster transfer method than traditional, Direct Connect P2P software.

To get started, you need a desktop client. We recommend using uTorrent, or uT for short. We prefer uTorrent based on its combination of advanced features, performance, and small footprint — in other words, it has all the makings of a power user program.

On the following pages, we’ll not only show you how to get the most out of uTorrent, but out of BitTorrent in general. We’ll cover both basic and advanced tips, and then toss in some of our favorite third-party add-ons for good measure. Whether you’re new to BitTorrent or a seasoned vet, there’s something in this guide for you.

Know the Lingo

Before diving head first into the world of BitTorrent, take some time to familiarize yourself with the protocol’s language. For example, do you know the difference between a tracker and a leecher? Why are leechers frowned upon, and how can you avoid becoming one? These are just some of the terms you’ll need to know as you traverse the BitTorrent universe. Here’s your handy cheat sheet:


Image Credit: lili.org

Torrent: Lazy linguists sometimes substitute Torrent in place of BitTorrent, but it actually has a definition all its own. A torrent is a small metadata file usually just a few kilobytes in size. It contains information about the file(s) you’re trying to download, such as file names, file sizes, where to download, and so forth. The torrent file (.torrent) is not the actual data you’re trying to retrieve.

Peer: Any other computer on the Internet which is both downloading and uploading portions of a file at the same time.

Leech(er): There are two meanings for this one. The most common definition of a leech is someone who disconnects and stops sharing a file as soon as they’ve obtained a complete copy. The fewer people there are sharing a file, the longer it takes to download, and for this reason, leeching is highly discouraged.

Peers who haven’t finished downloading a file are also referred to as leechers, but not necessarily in a derogatory way.

Seed(er): It’s good etiquette to continue sharing a file even after you’ve finished downloading the entire torrent, if only for a short while. This practice is known as seeding.

Reseed: When no more seeds exist for a particular file, then anyone who was actively trying to download it will be unable to finish. A reseeder is someone who has the completed torrent, reconnects to the swarm, and saves the day.

Swarm: Any group of users connected to each other for downloading and/or sharing a particular file.This includes peers, seeds, and leeches.

Tracker: A central server which stores the torrents, coordinates the action of all the seeders, peers, and leechers, and manages the connections. The Pirate Bay (TPB) is the largest tracker on the Internet and often the center of media attention due to ongoing legal issues. Not all trackers are public; there are several private trackers which require a membership.

Share Rating / Ratio: This refers to the ratio of uploaded data divided by downloaded data and is applicable only for the current session. A share rating of 1.0 means you’ve uploaded the same amount of data as you’ve downloaded.

Where to Find Torrents

Let’s address the 900lb gorilla right off the bat. Not everyone uses BitTorrent for, ahem, legitimate reasons, and for them, there are plenty of less scrupulous tracking sites littered all over the Web. You know the ones, because they’re usually tangled in high-profile legal proceedings. Let us be clear: We don’t condone software piracy, even if we don’t’ always agree with the DRM measures paying customers have to put up with.

So where you can find legal torrents? As it turns out, there are a handful of resources serving up free and unrestricted content. These include:

•    www.legaltorrents.com – specializes in “high quality open-licensed (Creative Commons) digital media and art.”  Several membership tiers are available, including one that’s free and comes with unlimited access to all content and custom feeds by email and RSS.

•    www.legittorrents.info – a no fuss tracking site serving up a variety of free and legal torrents ranging from Podcasts to Release Candidate software.

•    http://linuxtracker.org – just like it sounds, this is the go-to tracker for all things Linux.

•    www.publicdomaintorrents.com – deals entirely with films that are no longer copyrighted, many of which come optimized for mobile devices.

•    http://bt.etree.org – an awesome resource for music lovers, bt.etree includes a ton of live concert recordings from trade friendly artists.

In addition to dedicated torrent sites, many software publishers — especially in the Linux community – include torrents in their downloads section. In many cases, you’ll find it’s much faster to download a Linux distro or mammoth game demo by downloading via BitTorrent instead of HTTP.

Manage Torrents Remotely

One way to access uTorrent from a remote location is to install a desktop login client like LogMeIn, which gives you access to your PC through a Web interface. But if you’re only interested in controlling uTorrent while away from home and not your desktop, there’s a way you can do that. After installing and configuring uTorrent’s WebUI, you’ll have access to all of your BT downloads along with the ability to add or remove torrents. Here’s how to set it up.

Download the latest version of WebUI from here (see here if the download link is broken). Bear in mind that this is a beta release, meaning instability could rear its ugly head, although we never ran into any problems. Rename the downloaded file to webui.zip.

We need to place the webui.zip file in the same location as uTorrent’s settings.dat file. In Windows 7, navigate to C:Users [USERNAME]AppDataRoaminguTorrent. In earlier versions of Windows, the correct path should be C:Documents and Settings[USERNAME]Application DatauTorrent. If you can’t find it, or the directory doesn’t exist, perform a search for settings.dat.

If you’re running a portable version of uTorrent (and we’ll show you how do that later), you’ll find the settings.dat file in the uTorrent.exe folder.

The next step is to enable WebUI in the uTorrent client. Go to Options>Preferences and you should now see a WebUI entry. Click on it, then put a check in the Enable WebUI checkbox. Enter in a username and password and check Enable Guest account with username. Hit Apply, but don’t exit out just yet.

If you don’t remember the port number you used to configure port forwarding earlier, go back into the Connection tab and make note of it once again. We’re going to need this in the next step.

Let’s test out if you followed the steps correctly. Open up your browser and type http://localhost:PORT/gui/ and substitute the port number from above where it says PORT. Once you enter in your username and password, you should be in the WebU’s interface.

Of course, the whole point of this is to manage your BT downloads from a remote location and not from the same PC you installed uTorrent on. You’ll need to know your IP address, which you can retrieve from sites like WhatIsMyIP.com and myIPaddress.com. Use your IP address to login remotely, substituting it in place of localhost. So for example if your IP address is 12.34.56.789 and the port you recorded earlier was 12121, you would type in http://12.34.56.789:12121/gui/.

Note that this isn’t likely to work by trying to access your client PC from within your home network. Instead, you’ll need the IP address assigned by your router. For example, http:192.168.1.133:12121/gui/. You can find your PC’s internal IP by opening up the Command Prompt (Start>Run>CMD) and typing ipconfig. Make note of the IPv4 Address.


Make Your Own Torrents

Wondering how you’re going to send that HD video you took of your vacation to family and friends? Or what about all those pictures you snapped at the LAN party last week? For these and other situations where you’re dealing with large files, or a large collection of files, BitTorrent can be the best way to distribute them to others, provided you’re dealing with an at least a semi computer-savvy bunch (in other words, you may want to just burn and send Aunt Mabel and Uncle Fred a DVD).

Creating a torrent isn’t at all complicated and is probably much easier than you think. If you’re using uTorrent — and we recommend you do — go to File>Create new Torrent, or mash CTRL+N.

In the pop-up window that appears, click the Add File button if you’re dealing with a single file, or Add Directory if you have a folder full of files you want to share. Next you need to pick out an active tracker. A website called the Beehive maintains a list of active trackers that have been checked every 24 hours, and you can reference that list here. Once you have a tracker picked out, copy and past the URL into the Trackers box. Next, click the Start seeding checkbox, and press the “Create and save as…” button.

Before you can share your torrent with anyone, you first need to upload it to whatever torrent tracking site you picked out earlier. Most tracking sites require that you register with them before you’re allowed to upload. Once you’ve done that, navigate to the site’s upload section and add your torrent.

Now all that’s left is to share your torrent with your friends and family. You can use the link provided by the tracking site, or just email the ultra-small torrent file, which should only be between 10KB to 20KB. Don’t forget to seed!

Hire Others to do Your Heavy Lifting

BT downloads put a heavy strain on your Internet connection and can saturate both your upstream and downstream bandwidth. But there’s an alternative to using BitTorrent the traditionally way.

There are several sites wiling do the dirty work for you and download the torrent data right to their servers, at which point you can access it just like any other HTTP download. Furk.net is one such example and offers free access to several already-hosted torrents. For a fee, Furk.net will let you upload torrent, download multiple files at the same time, uncap your download speed, and some other perks. If a BitTorrent client isn’t an option, this is the next best thing.

Prioritize BitTorrent Traffic

With BitTorrent downloads and uploads barreling through your Internet connection at full bore, you may find that your speedy broadband connection has been saturated, reminding you of what it was like surfing the Web on a 56K modem. Ideally, BT traffic would run blazing fast when nothing else is going on, but yield to everything else. That’s where your router’s QoS (Quality of Service) settings come in.


Image Credit: techimo.com

Open up your browser and type 192.168.1.1 in the address bar. Enter your username and password when prompted (consult your router’s manual if you don’t know what this is). Once inside your router’s GUI, click on Applications & Gaming>QOS. Click the Enable radio button , and then scroll down to the first blank box titled Application Name. Type uTorrent, Azureus, or whatever BT client you’re running. Set the Priority to Low or Lowest and enter in the port number as configured in your BT client. HIt save and exit.

Some routers offer more fine grain QoS control than others, and certain third party firmware — like Tomato — offers a plethora of tweaking options. Getting into the intricacies of QoS settings goes beyond the scope of this guide, but if the options are there to play with, try experimenting with different settings.


Kickstart Downloads that Stall at 99 Percent Finished

Remember that scene in Happy Gilmore where Adam Sandler yells at his golf ball, “Why don’ you just go home? That’s your home! Are you too good for your home?,” right after narrowly missing a putt? That’s the same frustration you’ll feel after investing an afternoon to downloading a mega-sized torrent, only to have it hang at 99 percent complete. So close, and so maddening!


Image Credit: D-Link

There are a few reasons why this might happen. If you own a router with a Game Mode, it could be scrambling the packets so that your torrent fails the hash check. It’s a bit more technical than that, and it’s pretty rare for this to happen, but it does occur. Try disabling your router’s Game Mode and see if the download is able to finish.

The person who created the torrent may have inadvertently included a hidden system file — thumbs.db, for example –which can prevent your download from reaching 100 percent. In other cases, the stubborn file could be corrupt, and it may be something you can do without, such as a readme.txt file. To see which file is causing all the commotion, click on the Files tab on bottom portion of uTorrent. Right-click the problematic file and select Don’t Download.

Some hard-to-finish downloads are simply the result of not enough seeds or peers. In this case, your only options are to wait in hopes that a seeder will sign on, or find a more popular torrent and start over. Your torrent could also be corrupt, in which case you’ll also need to find an alternative source.

Is that uTorrent in Your Pocket, or Are You…Oh, it is uTorrent!

There’s an easy way to add uTorrent to your repertoire of portable apps so you can lug the client around on your USB key or any number of portable devices (like your iPod). The first thing you need to do is download the latest client (here) and copy it to your USB thumb drive or other storage device.

Next, create a new notepad file and save it as settings.dat. If you’re unable to change the file extension from .txt to .dat, open up My Computer, press ALT+T, and select Folder Options. Click the View tab and uncheck ‘Hide empty drives in the Computer folder.’ Copy the settings.dat file over to the same directory on your USB drive as uTorrent and you’re good to go!


Open Up Access Through Your Router and Firewall

Don’t despair if you can’t seem to connect to any seeders or peers, or if your downloads always trudge along at a snail’s pace even when there are a ton of seeders. You probably just need to configure port forwarding for your uTorrent client, or whatever BitTorrent client you’re using.

In a nutshell, port forwarding is a way for your router to forward IP addresses from an external location — in this case, seeders and peers — to an internal address, which is your PC. To find out which port uTorrent is trying to use, click on Options>Preferences>Connection. Make sure that both the ‘Enable UPnP port mapping’ and ‘Enable NAT-PMP port mapping’ checkboxes are marked. While you’re in there, you can also check ‘Add Windows firewall exception,’ or we can do this manually later. Take note of the number next to the ‘Random Port’ button.

Now that you know the port number, it’s time to configure your router. Access your router’s administrative controls by firing up your Web browser and typing 192.167.1.1 into the address bar and hit enter.You’ll be prompted for your username and password, which will vary depending on your router make and model. Try typing admin in both fields, or leaving the password field blank. If that doesn’t work, you’ll need to consult your router’s manual or online support site for specific instructions.

You should now be in your router’s control panel. We’re using the customized Tomato firmware for our Linksys router, so yours will probably look different than our screen grab above. If you’re using a Linksys router, click on Applications & Gaming>Port Range Forward (once again, if you’re using a different router, consult your documentation on how to find the port forwarding section). Choose a blank row and type uTorrent in the Application field. Type the port number number you recorded earlier in both the Start and End fields. Change the protocol to Both (TCP and UDP), and be sure to check the Enable box. Save and exit.

Slow or non-existent connections could also mean your firewall is blocking access. To manually create an exception for uTorrent, click on the Start menu and type in Firewall. Click on Action and select New Rule, which will bring up the New Rule Wizard. Select Program as the Rule Type and hit Next, then click the Browse button to find and enter the path to your uTorrent client (C:Program Files (x86)uTorrent uTorrent.exe by default). Keep the default settings as you click through the Wizard.

Set Bandwidth Limits and Maintain a Reasonable Ratio

Left unchecked, uTorrent and every other BitTorrent client will consume all the bandwidth it can and bog down your Internet connection in the process. That’s okay if you’re heading off to bed, but during the day, you’ll feel as though you traveled back in time to the days of dial-up.To prevent this happening, we need to set bandwidth limits.

Select Preferences from the Options menu, or press CTRL+P, and then click on Bandwidth. Everything is laid out pretty logically, so it’s just a matter of filling in the blanks. Uploads and downloads are measured in kilobytes per second (kB/s), and if you want to leave these at unlimited, choose 0. Otherwise, set limits that work for your Internet connection.

To help take into account overhead, we recommend measuring your real-world broadband speed at SpeedTest.net. Use your SpeedTest results to help determine how much bandwidth you want to fork over to BitTorrent.

You may be tempted to allocate very little upload bandwidth to BitTorrent, but this isn’t necessarily a good idea. Remember how your mother always told you it’s better to give than it is to receive? The same concept applies to BitTorrent, at least in part. The whole concept of BitTorrent is built around the idea that everyone shares and you should strive to upload as much as you download.

Rather than constantly keep an eye on your share ratio, you can configure uTorrent to automatically adjust the amount of bandwidth to allocate to a file once a set ratio has been met. To do this, go back into Preferences and click on Queuing. In the Seed While section, set whatever ratio you’re comfortable with. Check the ‘Limit the upload rate to’ box and choose 0 if you want to stop seeding once you’ve reached your goal.


Use RSS Feeds with BitTorrent

Several BT clients now come with integrated RSS support. That’s great news, because BitTorrent and RSS makes keeping up with your favorite TV shows or Podcasts super easy. Once again, we’re going to assume you’re using uTorrent.

First, you need to figure out which RSS feed(s) you want to subscribe to. There are a lot of resources out there, including ezRSS.it and LegalTorrents.com. Once you’ve picked out a (legal) feed, open up uTorrent and right-click the RSS icon next to All Feeds in the left-hand column. Select ‘Add RSS Feed…’ and enter in the feed’s URL. Under Subscription, you can choose whether or not to automatically download all items published in the feed. We’re going to leave this unchecked.

Depending on the feed you subscribed to, you may have signed up to much more than you bargained for. We’re not interested in all of these, and luckily, there’s a way to fix this and cut back the cruft. Right-click an episode you are interested in watching and select Add to Favorites.

Click on Options>RSS Downloader, or press CTRL+R. Under the Favorites tab, click on your RSS feed. This brings up the RSS Downloader window. Click on the RSS feed under the Favorites tab. In the Quality drop-down menu, select whichever formats you’re interested in, keeping in mind that you can choose more than one. Click the Smart ep. filter checkbox to make sure you don’t end up downloading duplicate copies, and if applicable, check the Episode Number box to define which seasons and episodes you’re interested in.

Any new episodes in your feed should now start downloading automatically.

Circumvent ISP Throttling with SSH

Do you suspect your ISP is putting the brakes on Bittorrent traffic? You can avoid this practice by making an end-run around your ISP and connecting with a Secure Shell (SSH) connection. Be warned that this most likely isn’t a permanent solution, which we’ll get to in a just a moment.

You’re going to need an SSH account to start things off, and that’s going to be the trickiest part. There are a lot of free shell providers out there, but most of them place strict restrictions on what you can do with them. You’re going to have to do some digging to find one that won’t frown on tunneling BitTorrent traffic, they may require a donation, and you could end up waiting several days for your account to be approved. You can start your search here.

Once you have an SSH account, download and install Putty, and then run the app. Make sure the SSH radio button is selected. Type in your SSH account information (Host name or IP addy and port).

Next, expand the Connection tree and select SSH>Tunnels. Enter in any available port number. Mash the Open button and enter in the username and password given to your by your SSH provider.

Open up uTorrent and navigate to Options>Preferences>Connection. Under Proxy Server, select Socks4 from the pull-down menu. Type localhost in the Proxy field and enter in your port number from above. Click Apply and then restart uTorrent.


Transfer Torrents to another Location

Maybe you’re running out of space on your hard drive, or perhaps you’re wanting to do some spring cleaning and organize your data. Whatever the reason might be, transferring your torrents from one spot to another is pretty quick and painless, once you know how.

Stop any downloads that are in progress by right-clicking and selecting Stop, or hitting the big red Stop button in uTorrent’s menu bar. Next, right-click the torrent(s) and select Advanced>Set Download Location… Navigate to the new download spot and click Save, but don’t change the file name.

See how easy that was? All that’s left is to highlight the torrent(s) and mash the green Play button. uTorrent will check the files to see how much is left to be downloaded, so just be patient whie it does its thing.

Transfer Torrents to uTorrent

So you decided to take our advice and ditch your current BT client for uTorrent. The only problem is, you’ve already invested a ton of time into downloading a bunch of large Linux distros, and the last thing you want to do is start from scratch. You’re in luck, because you can have your cake and eat it too (what else would you do with it?).

In this example, we’re going to show you how to migrate one or more partial BT downloads from Vuze (formerly Azureus) to uTorrent. The first thing you need to do is figure out where Vuze is storing the downloaded data. By default, this will be C:UsersUSERNAMEDocuments Azureus Downloads. If that directory doesn’t exist, go to Tools>Options>Files to find out where Vuze is hiding your data.

Stop any downloads that are currently in progress and close out Vuze. Open up uTorrent and select Options>Preferences>Directories and follow these steps:

  1. Check the ‘Put new downloads in’ checkbox and create or select a folder to store downloads in progress (we created a directed called ‘Downloads’ on our Desktop).
  2. Check the ‘Move completed downloads to’ checkbox and create or select a folder to store your finished downloads (we created a folder called ‘Completed’ inside the Downloads folder).
  3. Check the ‘Automatically load .torrents from’ checkbox and create or select a folder to store your torrent files (we created a folder called ‘Autoload’ on our Desktop).
  4. Click Apply and close out uTorrent.

Next, navigate to C:UsersUSERNAMEDocumentsAzureus Downloads or wherever it is Vuze was storing your partial downloads. Move (don’t copy) the data to the directory you specified in Step 1 above. Note that some clients, including Vuze, will sometimes add an extension to unfinished downloads. If that’s the case, you’ll need to remove it or else it could trip up uTorrent.

If you still have the original .torrent file that was used to initiate the download, move it (don’t copy) to the Autoload folder you created in Step 3 above. If you don’t have it, you’ll need tor re- download the original .torrent and put it in the Autoload folder. Once the .torrent file is in place, fire up uTorrent, and after a few seconds, your download(s) will initialize and pick up where they left off in Vuze.


Setup an Automated Throttling Schedule

We’re not too keen on having our ISP choke our BitTorrent bandwidth, but that doesn’t mean we’re entirely opposed to throttling. We just want it to occur on our own terms, not someone else’s. Fortunately for us, uTorrent’s built-in Scheduler makes this super easy. With the Scheduler, we can configure uTorrent to automatically kick on at night when we’re fast asleep. That way, we’ll have all the bandwidth we need during the day, and still wake up to a finished download in the morning.

To set up a schedule, go to Options>Preferences>Scheduler. Click the ‘Enable Scheduler’ checkbox, which will light up the grid in green. There’s a handy legend right below the grid that tells you what the colors mean, but to reiterate, dark green boxes tell uTorrent to download and upload at full speed, light green boxes tell uTorrent to only use a set amount of bandwidth (which you can configure), the white box is used to indicate when you want uTorrent to remain idle, and the light gray box tells uTorrent to seed (upload) only.

Because we work during the day and do a ton of Web surfing to research awesome stories and features for our homepage, we want to uTorrent to go into a state of comatose during working hours. We also like to unwind and frag our friends after a full day of work, and that can sometimes last until late at night. So to play it safe, we’re giving uTorrent the green light (literally) to do its thing from 1AM until 8AM, but not during any other hours.

As you highlight a square, it will tell you what 1-hour time slot it is for. To save time, you can click and drag multiple squares rather than clicking each one individually. Once you’re finished, you should have something that resembles the above.

Add One-Click BitTorrent Downloads to Firefox’s Reportoire

Don’t feel like fussing with BitTorrent clients every time you want to download a BT file? You don’t have to! One of the coolest extensions for Firefox is FireTorrent.

With FireTorrent installed, just click on a .torrent file and Firefox will download the related data files just like a normal download and even show you the progress in the Download Manger. And if you’d rather let a third-party handle a particular .torrent, just right-click and select Save Link As.

FireTorrent isn’t nearly as robust as most third-party BT clients, but you are afforded some basic options, including which port to use, download and upload bandwidth allocation, the ability to encrypt BT connections, and a few other light-weight customizations. It’s barebones, but it gets the job done!

Update uTorrent Remotely with a Single Click

The BitTorrent WebUI add-on for Firefox combines the one-click sex appeal of FireTorrent with the WebUI capabilities we set up earlier. Once configured, all you need to do is click on a torrent and this add-on will update your BT client at a remote location, provided you’re using either uTorrent or Vuze.

Follow our instructions earlier on how to setup uTorrent with WebUI. Next, install the BitTorrent WebUI add-on available here and configure it with the same settings you used to setup uTorrent’s WebUI.

Now all you need to do is find some torrents and start clicking!


Block Malicious IPs

Tinfoil hats tend to chaffe our head and freak out our co-workers, which are pretty big trade-offs for a little bit of peace of mind. But there’s a better way to protect our privacy from prying IPs. PeerGuardian 2 is an IP blocker for Windows that integrates support for mulitple lists, automatic updates, and blocks a bunch of protocols. It keeps a constantly updated list of blacklisted IPs known to track your P2P activity.

If you’re a real conspiracy theorist, PG 2 gives you plenty of options to keep the establishment from building a database about your online activity. Checking the P2P box should be enough for most users, but if you’re convinced you’re the center of the BT universe, go ahead and mash your mouse button on every checkbox.

You can also configure an update schedule for PG 2 to make sure you’re always one step ahead of the man. And for more than you ever wanted to know about this program, reference the extensive Wiki here.

Supercharge Windows XP for Faster Uploads

If you decided to stick with XP for a little while longer, you’re not just missing out on what Windows 7 has to offer, but you could be hamstringing your download speeds. That’s because Windows XP limits the number of TCP connections to no more than 10, which could prevent you from hooking up with a larger number of peers. So should you upgrade to Windows 7? Yes, but not because of the TCP limit.

A German programmer developed a nifty little patch that removes the 10 TCP limitation so you can set it at whatever number you want. Download the patch here, then fire up uTorrent and navigate to Options>Preferences>Advanced and look for net.max_halfopen.

Trick Out uTorrent with Skins

For all of its functionality, uTorrent isn’t much to look. And maybe that’s right up your alley, but if not, there’s a wealth of skins to experiment with until you find one that look that’s just right. And you can skin different parts of uTorrent individually, inculding toolbars, status icons, tab icons, and program icons.

Download your skin(s) from here and place them in C:Users[USERNAME]AppDataRoaminguTorrent. Restart uTorrent and enjoy your new look!

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7 Surprising Kick-Ass Things You Can Do with Google Sketchup

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As a part of Google’s quest to be the undisputed overlords of the Internet, they’ve made a lot of quality services available for free. Gmail, Google maps and Google Docs are all famous examples, but one of the search giant’s coolest free offerings, Sketchup, flies under a lot of peoples’ radars.

Sketchup is a free 3D modelling tool developed based on the philosophy that by giving people a small set of powerful, intuitive tools, you can lower the barrier of entry to 3D modelling, so that almost anyone can make quality 3D models with just a couple of sessions of practice.

Still not conviced to give Sketchup a try? We’ve compiled a list of 7 awesome things you can do with Sketchup that you probably didn’t know were possible. Did you know, for instance, that you can create a Left 4 Dead map in Sketchup? How about that you can design your own papercraft models? Read on to find out more!

Build a Model of Your House from a Floorplan

There’s something oddly rewarding about seeing a tiny version of your house. And beyond just the “Oh, neat!” value of seeing your living quarters in miniature, there’s real utility in being able to rearrange your furniture and try out different wall- and floor-coverings without actually having to do any heavy lifting. Fortunately, with Sketchup it’s surprisingly easy to make a model of a building interior. To do so is essentially a three step process:

1)    Obtain a floorplan of the building. If you live in a rented property, you might be able to ask your landlord for a floorplan, or you can simply take measurements of your rooms and draw your own floorplan in your preferred graphics program.

2)    Make a 2D replica of the floorplan in Sketchup. This step is easier than you might imagine. Simply click File > Import to import the image of your floorplan into Sketchup, and place it flat. Then, using the Rectangle, Line, and Offset tool, trace over the walls, drawing directly onto the floorplan. When you’re done, make sure to delete any extraneous lines.

3)    Finally, use the “Push/Pull” tool to extrude the walls you’ve drawn up. Click the surface, and type “10’” and press enter to manually select a height of 10 feet for the walls. Next, to make doors, simply draw a rectangle on the wall where the door should be, and use the “Push/Pull” tool to push the door through the wall, making a hole. You can copy/paste the door-shaped rectangle around the house, so you don’t have to individually draw each door. Repeat the same process for windows.

And that’s it! Now you’ve got a model of your house, ready to be furnished.

If you’d like more in-depth instructions about how to do this, Google has an excellent video tutorial here.


Design Your own Papercraft Schematics

You know about papercraft, right? It’s the art of making models out of paper and glue, generally from plans downloaded from the internet (and also one of our 50 things every geek should know). With Sketchup, and a program called “Pepakura Designer,” you can create your own papercraft plans.

Here’s how it works:

First, you create a model in Sketchup. Simpler is better, particularly if you’re new to papercraft. Models with lots of rounded surfaces will produce difficult-to-follow plans, and won’t look as good when complete.

Next, you export your model as a Google Earth 4 kmz file. Unfortunately: Sketchup 7 is not able to export in the Google Earth 4 kmz format. Fortunately, it’s still easy to find older versions of Sketchup with a Google search, so you’ll need to install one of those to make your Papercraft model, and export it as a Google Earth 4 kmz.

Finally, open the kmz file with Pepakura Designer, which is shareware. The full version costs 40 bucks, but with the trial version you can still create papercraft plans and print them, you just can’t save your projects for later.

Now you’re ready to cut, fold and glue your papercraft model.

Design custom furniture

Alongside architects and designers, woodworkers have been one of the groups of professionals to embrace Sketchup in a big way. And why not? It’s quick, allows you to work in real-world measurements, and there are plugins to add all sorts of woodworking-specific functionality. For instance, here’s a free plugin that takes a Sketchup model, and creates a cutlist and layout. That means it shows you exactly how much of each type of wood you need to buy, and shows you how to cut it so that you get all the pieces you need, while wasting as little wood as possible.

If you’re interested in woodworking, or would like to try your hand at making furniture in Sketchup, check out Design Click Build, a site with tons of helpful guides about woodworking in Sketchup.

Image Credit: Tim Killen


Make a Left 4 Dead Level!

For a lot of computer users, their first experience with 3D modeling was in building levels for one of the classic 3D shooters, like Quake. In terms of sheer fun value and sense of accomplishment, it’s hard to do better than getting to run around and gun down your friends in your newly created model. While Sketchup was not originally meant for making game levels, Google’s been making efforts to move in the direction, starting with a plugin that allows you to use Sketchup to make levels for Hammer—the level editor that powers Source engine games like Left 4 Dead and Team Fortress.

Making a Left 4 Dead level in Sketchup is a pretty simple affair with the Hammer Sketchup plugin. First, install the plugin by downloading the Left 4 Dead Authoring tools in Steam (requires a purchased copy of Left 4 Dead) and finding the plugin in Steamsteamappscommonleft 4 deadsdk_toolsplugins. Extract all files in the plugins folder to Sketchup’s plugin directory. Once you’ve done that, two new items will be in the “Plugins” menu next time you start: Export SMD and Export VMF.

By allowing you to export as VMF, the Hammer plugin lets you to save your Sketchup models in a format that the Left 4 Dead version of the Hammer level editor understands. This means you can use Sketchup to quickly model props for Left 4 Dead models, or even entire level geometries, then use the Hammer editor to add the finishing touches, like scripting and AI pathing.

A word of warning: the Hammer editor is finicky, and this affects how you have to model in Sketchup. The primary concern is that Hammer requires that all brushes(objects to be placed in the level) have a convex topography, which is means no straight line can intersect a brush at more than two points. This means that any components you wish to use must be composed of simple, convex blocks, which themselves have to be made into components (by selecting them and pressing G in Sketchup). This can be a tricky process, so if you want to learn more, check out this link and keep your eyes on MaximumPC.com—we plan to offer a more detailed guide to Sketchup and Hammer in the future.


Use a Raytracing Renderer to Make Photorealistic Images

Once you’ve modeled something in Sketchup, it’s hard to resist the temptation to show it off to anyone who’ll look. But even with a wealth of style and lighting options, it’s hard to really make an object in Sketchup look great, or anywhere near photorealistic. Fortunately, there are 3rd party renderers that make up for this deficit.

For a free option, you can try Kerkythea. It’s a freeware renderer with a Sketchup plugin available and can put together some pretty decent renders. For more information about how to setup and use Kerkythea with Sketchup, check out this blog post.

Image By: Alex

If you’re ready to move onto something a little bit more powerful, there are some relatively affordable renderers available, such as SU Podium, which has a free evaluation, and sells for $180. Unlike the previous renderer, SU Podium works directly within Sketchup, so you don’t have to start up a separate program, then export and import a sketchup model to make a quality render.

Image By: Evil Elvis

Of course there are also more advanced, general purpose renderers such as V-Ray that can be used to make photo-realistic images of your models, but these carry an industrial-strength price tag, sometimes running into the thousands of dollars.

Image By: tranganhhp

Make Custom Logos and Icons

Although Sketchup’s primary purpose is as a 3D editor, it can also be useful for making 2D images. For instance, for a quick 3D effect on a logo, import an image of the logo into Sketchup, then trace over it and extrude. Then paint the logo with the right colors using the texture tool, select a style, and export it as an image (File > Export > Image).

Step One: Import
Step Two: Trace
Step Three: Extrude and Color
Step Four: Style

If you want a transparent background, you’ll have to do a little post-processing using your photo editor of choice. Just pick a style that uses a flat white background before you export, then use a color-select tool (such as the “magic wand” in Photoshop) to select and delete the background.

This technique is also great for creating large custom icons for use on a website or in Windows Vista or 7. Just model an object in SketchUp (or download one from the 3D Warehouse), export an image, and then use a photo editor to remove the background and scale it down to icon size. Here’s a set of Moleskine icons made in Sketchup by Max Brown:


Turn Your Building Model into a Blueprint

An architectural or design model is great for visualizing an object or space, but sometimes you want a more old-fashioned, formal view of an object. Here’s how to turn your model into a printable plan, like this:

First you’ll need to annotate your model with dimension lines. To do this, select the Dimension tool from the Tools dropdown menu. If you’d like quicker access to the all the tools in Sketchup, and not just the essentials, enable the larger toolset by checking View > Toolbars > Large Toolset and unchecking View > Toolbars > Getting Started. To draw a dimension with the dimension tool, simply click on two points of your model, then move the mouse to one side or the other to “pull” a dimension line out. Depending on which direction you “drag” the line, it’ll measure different distances. For instance, if you pull to the right, it’ll measure the vertical distance between the two points, and if you pull up it’ll measure the horizontal distance.

Next, we’ll change the view to a straight-on side view. For this, first click on the Camera dropdown menu and uncheck Perspective. This will make your model look weird if you look at it from any sort of angle, but is the only way to get a perfect side-on view. Next, open the Camera menu again, then select Standard Views and select the side you want to view your model from.

Now you should have a nice, straight-on side view with labeled dimensions. If you want to take it a step further, you can give it a simulated blueprint style by opening the Styles window and then choosing Assorted Styles > Blueprint.

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How-To: Turn Your Windows 7 PC into a Wireless Access Point

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If you’ve ever been in a situation when you absolutely, positively, need to share a network connection wirelessly, and you have a PC with a wireless adapter that runs Windows 7, Connectify (from wireless mesh networking company Nomadio, Inc.) is the answer. Connectify (currently in beta) turns almost any Windows 7 PC with a working wireless network adapter into a fast and secure wireless access point.

ConnectifyMe turns your wireless Windows 7 PC into a Wi-Fi hot spot

What You Need

  • A PC running Windows 7*
  • A working wireless adapter**
  • Software from the Connectify Me website
  • About 15 minutes of your time

*Connectify works with Windows 7 final and Windows 7 RC

**Update – some Intel network adapters might not work with Connectify – see Paul Lilly’s comment below

Getting Started

  1. Navigate to the Connectify Me website and click either the Download Beta button or Beta Test Now shield.
  2. Enter registration information and click Submit.
  3. Click the Click Here to Download Connectify link to download it immediately (instead of waiting for the promised email link which you might, or might not, receive on a timely basis).
  4. Run the 1.41MB installer, and provide UAC information if prompted.
  5. After you sign off on the license agreement, the installer does its work.
  6. Click Next to continue, and click Finish. By default, Connectify will start, and a readme will open in your browser.

Setting Up Connectify

If you don’t see the Connectify icon in the notification area, click the up arrow pointer to display additional icons. Click the Connectify icon.

Preparing to start Connectify

The first time you start Connectify, you will see an error message. That’s because Connectify needs you to provide a passphrase. Click the passphrase field and enter the text you want to use. You must enter at least eight characters (up to 32) for your passphrase text (you can display or hide the text as desired). Connectify uses WPA2 AES encryption for maximum security.

By default, Connectify uses Connectify as its SSID. To change the SSID, enter the name you prefer in the WiFi Name field.

If you have more than one connection you can share, select the connection to share from the Internet pull-down menu. You can use Connectify to share a wired connection (which is what I used for this article), or a wireless connection.  You need only one wireless adapter to make sharing work, even if you’re sharing a wireless connection wirelessly.

Click the Hotspot Off button to turn on the Connectify access point.

Configuring the Connectify software wireless access point

Connecting to a Connectify Access Point

Whether you use Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7, MacOS, or Linux, connecting to the Connectify software access point uses the same procedures you use to connect to any secure wireless access point that broadcasts its SSID:

  • Select the SSID used by the network
  • Enter the passphrase when prompted
  • Make the connection
  • Make any firewall or other configuration changes requested by your wireless network client

Once other PCs have connected to the Connectify software access point, Connectify lists the computer(s) connected to it by their network names and IP addresses.

Connectify shows you who's connected to your Connectify access point

When you shut down the connection, Connectify ”remembers” who was connected to the network, listing them as “disconnected clients.”

Conclusion

Connectify works – and works well – because it relies upon new networking features built into Windows 7. Right now, Connectify costs nothing to try – and it provides a solid, secure, and fast connection. Whether you’re looking for a quick way to share a wired connection in a hotel room or conference center, add wireless capability with Internet access to a home or office wired network, or set up a quick, easy LAN party without fiddling around with your normal network configuration settings, Connectify looks like a winner. It’s one of the coolest reasons to move up to Windows 7.

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